DAMN
The DC in the picture literally dropped out, cracking the auto gearbox case, ripping out the cooler lines and mashing the body tunnel. I was doing about 40kph when it let go.
This vehicle had done a little over 100,000 kms. It was "checked" at servicing and there were no noises or vibrations until seconds before it let go.
Unfortunately, mine is not an isolated failure.
DAMN
The disco2 shafts failing like that isn't unheard of at all. They usually vibrate first when they fail, and if there is a problem then you need to drop the shaft fairly soon.
The Disco2 unis are 1300's as far as I know. I would highly recommed 1310 unis and you will need a new shaft built to take these unis. I believe also that Tom Woods as mentioned in here make the best shafts also. His own 1310 DC joint is strong and it is servicable - you otherwise don't get both from other manufacturers. Likewise his uni joints are guaranteed and my experiences are that his shafts last 2.5x I think it is longer than a standard spec shaft with or without greasable unis. TW ones are not expensive compared to buying them new or having them rebuilt.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
All of the ones which I have broken have failed in the centre bearing which then takes out the uni bearings. I've found that if the 1310's fail in the centre bearing they don't take out the uni bearings and you can rebuild it with only a centre bearing rather than the whole lot.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
What's the opinion of ordering some Woods 1310unis/centre ball and rebuiling the shaft locally for the 1310 size needle caps? Gets the good unis and ball but built locally might work out some cheaper.
FWIW Hardy Spicer do a HD double cardan joint that uses 25R Mechanics uni's that are supposedly stronger than a 1310 Spicer uni.
HD DC or 1330 uni for front prop ?
I have no idea on pricing compared to the TW unit, but it only takes a phone call.
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