Thread: Newbie with Disco 1 - Advice needed.

Originally Posted by BlueDisco98

Hi everyone,
Sorry this is a little long but trying to give as much detail as possible.
A couple of months ago I bought a 1998 Discovery 1 LS and love it!
3.9L Petrol/LPG. Very clean and drives like a dream. Checked out the history and all seems good.
She’s been running perfectly until recently.

Now starting to have a few problems and I’m sure it’s something simple.
Broke down a couple of weeks ago and got towed to a mechanic who seems to specialise in LR’s.
Was told needed a new fuel pump. I also informed the garage I thought there was a problem with timing/vacuum advance but was told the vacuum advance didn’t really matter. Is this normal?
Also had a 264,000 KM service done while it was there – the usual, new filters, coolant oils etc. everything tightened back up, checked over.
Since it’s been to the garage I seem to have a few problems. Thus being

Fuel gauge wasn’t working so took it back to get sorted.
It also began backfiring when running on LPG after about 20kms. Garage then told me a new set of plugs should sort that out. New set fitted and seems to be better but still pops now and then but maybe expected for the age of it.
Then, last weekend she overheated when had the air con on. This is the first time since the service the heaters had been turned off. After checking the coolant it seemed to be a little low. I’ve now got it sat halfway up the expansion bowl, I’ve ran the air con and temperature gauge seems normal sitting halfway when the engine has warmed up. I now can hear a water sloshing noise coming from dash and reading another post in here I’ve tried a couple of things to get rid of the noise. Not quite there yet. No milky oil, coolant level remains where I topped it up to.

Anybody have any thoughts on what could be causing the backfiring?
Do I need to get the vacuum advance fixed and if so what should it cost?
Any more thoughts on water sloshing noise would be helpful.
I’m in Melbourne and need to find a good Land Rover specialist if anyone can help.
I’d like to do some work myself where possible as very interested in learning how this beast works.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.

find yourself a new mechanic...

the water sloshing is water trapped in the drain pan from the evaporator.

Spark plugs need to be chosen to be optimum for gas. 1 heat range colder than stock, gap set at 0.7mm. (eg Bosch WR7DC+) Timing should be set at 10 degrees BTDC at idle. Vacuum advance is useful for economy. Available here:

Advance Diaphragm Options

Not much use if you only tow the boat with it. Good for better economy on trips.

Keep the ignition leads separate from each other, don't tie them in bundles. Stock leads should be replaced with modern aftermarket, eg Bosch.

+1 for both those responses. First find a new mechanic, you should never drive away with more problems that you drove in with that's awful. I know Ritters are great with Land Rovers and I've found them to be very honest. They aren't the cheapest going around but if you try to skimp on price too much you'll get into trouble. I recommend them, not sure how they go with gas though as I've never had any gas work from them but the gas you should be able to sort out yourself by putting new optimum plugs in exactly as advised by Bee Utey and make sure you replace the leads too and make sure they aren't touching each other. I had same problems with my old V8 on LPG and once I did those things for the LPG it ran perfectly. I also set the timing myself at 10 degrees BTDC which I think helps LPG also, and then I put premium 98 unleaded in the petrol tank whenever running on petrol.

All of this was off advice from fellow forum members for the exact LPG problems you're describing and once I did it all the LPG ran perfectly.

Have a look at some of Bee Uteys posts he is a guru with LPG. your backfiring etc is because the mechanic had no idea how to tune it to both so he did a standard petrol tune and stuffed it up for you; I had exactly the same thing happen and hated it until Bee Utey worked his majic on it and ended up with more power in both petrol and gas.

Hi did all you said today, separated all the leads, timing 10 btdc stupid hold down bolt to get to for the dizzy, finally got it with a 9/16 ring /OE , fitted a new element to RR type canister air cleaner, it seems a bit sharper, now hope its a bit better in top gear on the hills now...In the old days we bundled or twisted the leads to stop EM field build up and cross firing so why do you split them all up for Gas now?? Gary

Originally Posted by Gary S11

In the old days we bundled or twisted the leads to stop EM field build up and cross firing so why do you split them all up for Gas now?? Gary

Just found separating works better. Originally I was told this by the local Top Gun rep when I complained his leads didn't stop backfires on gas. Have been doing it ever since. It probably is different with wire leads, most modern leads are spiral core or carbon core suppressed. Perhaps you were suppressing radio noise, not necessary now with new sytle leads.