Thread: Couple of 300 Tdi questions, timing belt & injectors

Injectors/nozzles should last at least 150k km. However often double that or more.

Misalignment of the crappy pressed metal pulleys is common in a 300. If there is a significant amount of rubber "fluff", then I would replace the belt ASAP.

Hi,
Check out my post Frayed timing belt at 45k on the same subject. I had the solid gear fitted but still got premature belt wear on the outer edge at 45k. There was fuel pump bracket mod that should have been done that is said to have caused belt alignment issues, mine already had it though and some say you have to pre tension the back of the pump to get the belt to track properly. I tried this but it didn't seem to make much difference in my case. My belt was not badly worn just a couple of mm off the outer so it probably would have gone another 20k at least. I'm just going to change the belt at 60k from now on as a a precaution. The other thing that may help is Landrover modified the belt tension down to 11Nm so maybe that will make a difference as perhaps if the belt was too tight before it may have helped pull the belt towards the casing.
Cheers
Mark

Originally Posted by Discomark

[snip]
The other thing that may help is Landrover modified the belt tension down to 11Nm so maybe that will make a difference as perhaps if the belt was too tight before it may have helped pull the belt towards the casing.
Cheers
Mark

It's believed the lower belt tension is the biggest help in wear/misalignment problems with the 300Tdi belt.

Mines come out at 80-100,000km and look almost new still.

Originally Posted by rick130

It's believed the lower belt tension is the biggest help in wear/misalignment problems with the 300Tdi belt.

Mines come out at 80-100,000km and look almost new still.

Hi All

I second that about, excessive belt tension, being the major cause of the belt run off.

But you must first, check and if necessary, cure the belt alignment, as it has most likely distorted the timing case housing and needs to be rectified, this is done simply, by loosening the bracket at the back of the injector pump, moving the back of the pump slightly and then retightening it again.

There are some good articles on the web, that describe how to do this in some detail, along with the replacement of the belt, idler and cog with the upgraded kit.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3D15JQuDUU"]300tdi timing belt check - YouTube[/ame]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=22319

Cheers Arthur

Hi Discomark,
I was following your thread with interest, when I came to do my belt and found the "black fluff" I could neither remember who wrote the thread or what the title was so I couldn't find it, I tried a few searches. Anyway thanks for getting back to me, I've now read through your thread and the attached links, great information, the timing for the fuel pump is a 9.5 mm drill bit isn't it? The Blackknight thread has a bolt in the hole not a drill and doesn't mention the size.
I'm not so cramped for room I have the engine out I'm doing a rebuild, just wanted to make sure I had everything right before I replaced the belt. The rension down to 11 Nm is something I didn't know. Thanks for the assistance.

10mm or whatever fractional bolt is the tightest in the holes, any play and your pump timing will be out. (usually slightly retarded)
You will feel the difference as soon as you take the car for a drive.

Ideally you set it up with a dial indicator reading plunger lift off the pump, IIRC factory setting is 1.6mm, but slightly advanced is better @ 1.54mm.

All the links to appropriate instructions are in 'The Good Oil' forum, including different takes on how to make the various tools that help.

IMO DiffLocks step by step instructions are the best I've seen, including all the appropriate tech bulletin updates and a couple of work arounds.

[QUOTE=Nomad9;1555079] the timing for the fuel pump is a 9.5 mm drill bit isn't it?
Thats correct and thats what I used. I also found it difficult to find a decent torque wrench that went down low enough to accurately measure the 11Nm. I checked a few out but you can spend a lot on a decent one that is accurate with such low readings, in fact the cheaper ones I looked (dial type) already had readings with no load and the 3 examples I looked at all showed different readings even though they were the same brand and model. Anyway I ended up making my own using some accurate fish scales (spring type) and a socket T-bar with a piece of pipe over it that I drilled a hole in at exactly 1 foot long. 11Nm = 8.11 foot pounds so I attached the scale at the one foot mark and got the missus to pull on the scales until they hit 8lb while I tensioned the adjuster pulley and bingo. I believe this is a pretty accurate method with such a low torque setting and much better than most of the torque wrenches I looked at. Of course the scales need to be accurate but I tested mine with a 10lb weight and they read exactly 10lbs so that was good enough for me.
Cheers
Mark