Thread: timing belt stuff

I presume you're talking of a 300tdi seeing as you are talking about a timing belt, but yes, the viscous hub unscrews to the right as you are looking at it from the front.

Thus thread here gives some suggestions on how to undo it (noting that my thread was for a V8, where yours is a tdi - same principle just opposite direction!)

Originally Posted by ade

can i undo the crank pulley bolt using the breaker bar on the chassis rail trick?

Yes. Breaker bar under chassis (next to PAS pump) was JC's recommendation to me, and worked a treat.

If the AC rad and grille are remaining in place, it is hard to see if things are lined up properly when looking from above (one tooth out actually looks right). I used a phone camera to take a pic from straight on to make sure all was lined up properly.

Hi Ade,
Don't forget to think about how you are going to tighten the crankshaft pulley nut up after you've replaced the belt. This can be the bit that requires a bit more thought. The undoing method doesn't work in the doing up direction.
The "I'm sure that is enough" and "that'll do" method could cost you dearly in the longer term. The first time I did the timing belt on a 300 TDi I ended up taking the sump off and putting a piece of wood between the crank and the crankcase to enable me to get enough leverage on the T bar.
Maybe I was a bit pedantic but I've heard of some pretty horrific tales of when crankshaft bolts aren't tight enough and bugger up the crankshaft. Just something to bare in mind.
While I had the pulley off I made a tool similar to the real thing, makes the job so much easier. The stilson jaws across the pulley at right angles even with some cloth on doesn't work either, the pulley is cast iron and on some occasions can get damaged or even worse break. TRS in Adelaide do have spare ones............!
Check the fuel pump timing a couple of times after you've rotated the engine a couple of times, tends to hang about in the slightly retarded position, don't over tension the belt.
Good luck.

To remove the crank damper bolt I use a 3/4" drive socket and bar and turn the engine till the bar (attatched to bolt) is about 1" ABOVE the passenger side chassis rail, then remove the solenoid (Fuel cut off) wire and give the starter key the slightest flick and the bolt is usually loose. You may need to give the spanner you are using a sharp wack on the end with a hammer to loosen the fan nut, Regards Frank

Don't want to boast but in the last week I have got getting the engine stripped down to timing belt down to 15 minutes flat. I have done it several times trying to locate a chirp. Yes I use the tommy bar resting on the l/h chassis rail to loosen the crank bolt. To do it up again on the auto I wedge a screwdriver into the bellhousing drain hole and torque the bolt up to required amount, if manual leave it in gear with handbrake on. Hardest bit is removing the crank pulley the first time but if you do as recommended you will have trouble.

Adrian