You didn't just leave it in d right?
Use lockheed pads, vented rotors may help a little, but reduction gears in the transfer will certainly fix your worrys, personally just get used to it, it's not that bad![]()
i have always had manuals in a 4x4 but a few months ago i brought a super clean d1 v8 auto. this feels to be the best car i have owned i am so proud of it.
But........... after doing a weekend of exploring with a mate through the crawford river national park i have become a little worried.
we did a couple of long decents down som huge valleys. i am use to relying on the engine braking, found this very had if not impossable in the new d1. my brakes became all that was stopping me from ending up at the bottom of the valley.
they got hot...............couldnt help but think if i was in the high country and decending for a couple of km's this could be a real problem. my mate had a d2(hill decent) man it worked well.
tell me if you do alot of this stuff what are the options? dont say get a manual..........these cars are capable and nice to drive...how to i increase engine braking? is there a hill decent option for the d1 somehow???
any experiences in hill decent out there?
hey heres my d1(pic)
cheers kippakoop
You didn't just leave it in d right?
Use lockheed pads, vented rotors may help a little, but reduction gears in the transfer will certainly fix your worrys, personally just get used to it, it's not that bad![]()
If you think the D1's brakes get hot check the D2's after using the HDC for a while.
I don't find the Auto a problem on descents. I lock it in first low and the engine holds it nicely, even with 33's. You do have to feather the brakes from time to time to control the speed a little but if you keep you speed under control it's usually ok. My brakes do fade if I use the to much and thats will be upgraded one day. I have had them fade more using them on windy roads then in the bush.
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
As said put it in low range 1st and you have engine braking again![]()
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
yeah locked 1st,
20min or more down a long steep hill takes its toll though. esp fethering the brakes. anyhow will do some research into reduction gears and braking.
anyone gone into places like wonangatta or any other high country trips with long steep hills. very interested to hear comments on engine braking.
maybe some who have put reduction gears in or have upgraded the brakes and rotors.
cheers for then reply's
To reduce the load on the wheel brakes , I often (slowly) use the handbrake as a supplement. The handbrake is completely separate to the foot brake in a D1 or my RRC.
In extreme circumstances and very slowly you can put the transmission in reverse to give additional braking and the torque converter will give extra braking. But this is only for a very short distance say down a bank.
Like everything of this nature you have to use a good dose of common sense and not overheat the handbrake or the transmission.
BTW if it is OK to go that fast the engine braking increases greatly over 1500RPM as the injectors cut off then if you have your foot off the accelerator.
Regards Philip A
I gave the old air-conditioning trick a try in my D1 a few weeks back. To be honest I've always put that idea in the bull**** category.
I honestly cannot believe the difference it makes.
I was gaining speed, around 1800 rpm locked in first low and when I switched it on and it came back down to ~950 and I never needed to touch the brake again.
I would not expect any auto that is being placed into reverse, in order to slow forward motion, to last very long at all.
I have a manual and use the AC to help slow the decent, makes a real difference.
Try stopping every now and then while decending, park and hand brake, in order to give the brakes a chance to cool.
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