300 Tdi Auto (145k) Low Speed - Misfire? Hunting?

As blknight pointed out its not uncommon to get crap in the water trap near the fuel tank and I clean mine out every time I replace the fuel filter. Usually it has some weird looking clear jelly like stuff which I can only assume is some sort of algae that lives in diesel. I also fitted an adapter ring to the fuel filter housing so I can use the cheaper Lucas CAV filters. The added bonus is they have a clear glass bowl so you can see if there is fuel starvation or water etc getting past the water trap. Mines payed for itself already as I got 10 x Lucas CAV filters for under $5 ea on ebay and have used five already.

I got my filter adapter here but i'm sure you will be able to pick them up in the UK as well.
Berrima Diesel Service - Australias Premier 4WD Service Centre
Cheers
Mark

clear jelly is just the "wax" from the fuel, its fairly normal to get a little bit of this when you get "black Snot" thats the algae.

Im personally of the opinion that because the "wax" is denser than the diesel it sits around any water in the tank and acts as a breeding ground for the diesel snot bug.

This Wax is the same thing that if allowed to accumulate blocks the pickup strainer in the diesel tanks, fortunately its easy to get rid of mix a cup of petrol with about a liter of metho and do the following.

run your tank to near empty (on the warning light and as close to running out of fuel as you're game to go and still be able to make it to your favorite servo)
drain and clean your fuel water seperator
reprime the fuel system
drive to the servo (wear your servicing cloths, if you didnt seal the FWS correctly it will cause you to suck air and stall)
tip in your metho petrol mix
1/2 fill it with diesel
Drive it till its on the low fuel light
redo the FWS
refill it.


that generaly gets rid of 90% of the wax in the tank and either puts it back in solution OR deposits it into the FWS.

Dropping some pure glass marbles into the tank also helps prevent the formation of the wax.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

mate the opening diagnostics is all DIY stuff and can be done with just a shifter, screwdriver, a hoseclamp and a suitably sized length of hose. More than happy to talk you through it and save you some dollars. it could be as simple as a 0.03c rubber sealing ring gone

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Many thanks for the kind offer. My rule is never touch the brakes or the engine! I'm compiling a list of jobs for my garage based on feedback from different forums (mainly this one).

Nipping over to him tomorrow.

:):):)

Just a quick question.

There's a fuel filter on the bulkead in front of the driver. Is this filter also called a sedimeter and a fuel water seperator or are they different things?

I really appreciate all of your answers.

:twobeers:

no offence mate but I get the implication that you've changed the fuel filter..

IF you can change a fuel filter you can do all you need to do to blow back the lines most likely to be causing problems and clean the pickup but your call. (although ID bet membership even my wife could do what needs to be done and so could you)

one other thing loose the K+N bird strainer and fit a decent filter. If you're using one of the K+N oily filters you're just killing off the MAF sensor by contaminating it with oil. IF youve got one of the dry K+N filters your just killing it (and the engine) with particulate matter.

Here at AULRO.com we don't just let marketing hype rumour control or manufacturer provided tests run a decision we go get one of our anoraks, give him a white coat and let him loose until he comes back with some facts (or beer) Heres the result. from when it was decided to bed down the filtration myths based on the most common filters used in AUS.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by auf_wiedersehen_pet

Just a quick question.

There's a fuel filter on the bulkead in front of the driver. Is this filter also called a sedimeter and a fuel water seperator or are they different things?

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The fuel filter in front of the driver is the main fuel filter which also acts as a water separator, but is generally referred to as the fuel filter.
You can open the bottom screw fitting and drain any water off.

The sedimenter is down underneath the car near the fuel tank. It is attached to the driver side chassis rail near the rear diff.
It collects sediment from the fuel/tank and also acts as a water separator, before the fuel goes to the main filter on the bulkhead.
Be careful if you try and drain this as the plastic screw fitting may crack.

How'd you end up with this Pet? Get anywhere?

After my last post the head gasket went and I had it replaced along with a pressure test/skim of the head. Seven miles back to home and I'd got rock hard hoses and water erupting from the header tank - suggesting that there was a more significant problem afoot.

After a lot of soul searching I've just had a 2.8 TGV (with cable operated fuel pump) fitted last week. It runs fine although I think I'd benefit from a bigger torque converter.

http://www.mdengineering.co.uk/pdf/1...ITH%20KITS.pdf

Ashcroft Transmissions - ZF4HP22