Thread: A Frame Ball Joint - Taper Seat

I had that issue on my old 90, I lined the worn taper with a gas axe torch & brazing rod. roughly filed any high spots off with a chainsaw sharpening file.
Tighten ball joint down really tight, Never had any more problems.

I would have thought that you could get away without welding in a steel taper. Get hold of some very thin steel shim stock (you'll probably have to experiment with thickness) - cut to a rectangle that when rolled into a cylinder fits the larger end of the taper, push it into the hole and insert ball joint taper and tighten gently - this will mark the overlap where your shim is too big for the small end of the taper - remove and trim shim - reinsert, tighten up job done.

Why not just fit a washer with a hole bigger than the taper end to cinch up the nut onto.
Regards Philip A

Thanks for your suggestions The washer under the nut definitely needs replacing with a thicker one.
There is it Not much room between the underside of the bracket and the diff so it cannot be pulled through too far.
I asked a local toolmaker and he can turn a taper easily in a round bar that can be welded to the top of the existing bracket. I will send photos of the fix.
When the boy got the Disco we noticed that one of the A frame pivot brackets had been rewelded and maybe not back in the right place as the rear axle is 15mm of to one side. It's Parallel with the front axle and the tyres are good so when we run out of Boys Own stuff to play with, but then again maybe not.
Along the way we fitted front and rear diff locks 33" tyres offset wheels 2" lift and 4:1 ? crown wheel & pinions and it's goes places where a more cautious old person is not comfortable with a 19 yr old is driving. Great 4WD
I have read a lot of good stuff in this forum but the best advice I read was 'GET OUT THERE AND ENJOY IT'
Thanks again
Ollie

from memory the top taper unbolts and you just throw it away and fit a new one.

I spoke with MR Auto it seems our D1 is special! we knew that already, the axle housing bracket is welded to the axle housing, there is no bolt on component between the axle bracket and the ball joint spigot. We are going to pull the axle housing assembly out at the weekend and sort it out. There is a air leak on the ARB locker that we need to also sort out. If we block the air pipe the compressor builds pressure and stops, there is no bubbling of oil with the diff filler plug out so maybe the seals are good, if you then put your hand over the diff filler plug and release ther is a pressure build up in the diff, so it is probably the copper pipe inside the diff.
I will post the 'Playing with the Landie at the weekend' results.
Thanks Ollie

Originally Posted by Ollie

I spoke with MR Auto it seems our D1 is special! we knew that already, the axle housing bracket is welded to the axle housing, there is no bolt on component between the axle bracket and the ball joint spigot. We are going to pull the axle housing assembly out at the weekend and sort it out. There is a air leak on the ARB locker that we need to also sort out. If we block the air pipe the compressor builds pressure and stops, there is no bubbling of oil with the diff filler plug out so maybe the seals are good, if you then put your hand over the diff filler plug and release ther is a pressure build up in the diff, so it is probably the copper pipe inside the diff.
I will post the 'Playing with the Landie at the weekend' results.
Thanks Ollie

If you are getting a pressure build up then your breather must be blocked.

Good point I'll check if the tubes are clear, we extended the Axles T/Case & Gearbox breathers with a TJM kit with foam filters, moving them higherThe boy collected the new adaptor & copper pipe from ARB for the locker today. We just found out he has a Footy training weekend so the axle removal will have to wait until next week, not much point having a great hungry lump of a thing if it's not there to undo the tight stuff!