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Thread: rubber donut advice

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    brisbane
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    It took my vibration away . It returns everything to the same distance , so there is binding of the yokes either . It worked for me .

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by pistolpete View Post
    another donut gone...
    If that is the new one you just had installed, then someone is putting them in wrong or using crap products.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Atwell, Western Australia
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    it was the one I just had installed... I'm getting rid of the rotoflex propshaft and putting in the unijoint RRC one.. then I'll never have a problem again..

    the donuts where britpart.. so they cant be that bad can they..

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lismore, NSW
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    I have a 2" lift on my D1 3.9 V8. Replaced the donut about 10,000kms ago. No problems with it. I used a GKN one for the replacement.
    At the same time I also replaced trailing arm bushes, A arm centre pivot bearing, and centre bush (in the donut). The centre bush was a PITA to replace as the old one was very hard to get out.
    Last edited by warren9981; 8th April 2012 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Added further detail.
    Warren

    Currently Landroverless - Still interested
    Formerly: 2003 D2a Update TD5 Auto. Platinum edition. ARB Bar, 36" LED light bar, cargo barrier, dual batteries.

  5. #25
    v.w.dave Guest
    I was told 2"+ lift will shag them and if any of the rear bushings are worn out it will also wear them out fairly quickly as well.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Atwell, Western Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by warren9981
    I have a 2" lift on my D1 3.9 V8. Replaced the donut about 10,000kms ago. No problems with it. I used a GKN one for the replacement.
    At the same time I also replaced trailing arm bushes, A arm centre pivot bearing, and centre bush (in the donut). The centre bush was a PITA to replace as the old one was very hard to get out.
    How much offroad stuff have you done? Mine have been fine until I get sandy or muddy.

    I did the centre bush also.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    in the wild New England, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by pistolpete View Post
    it was the one I just had installed... I'm getting rid of the rotoflex propshaft and putting in the unijoint RRC one.. then I'll never have a problem again..

    the donuts where britpart.. so they cant be that bad can they..
    from the manual:

    47 PROPELLER SHAFTS
    4 REPAIR
    REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
    Service repair no - 47.15.03
    NOTE: SGF rubber coupling should be left
    attached to propeller shaft. Only remove
    coupling from propeller shaft if
    replacement is required.
    Remove
    1. Scribe alignment marks on flanges at both ends
    of propeller shaft to ensure correct refitting.
    2. Remove three nuts and bolts securing flexible
    coupling to axle flange.
    3. Remove nuts securing propeller shaft flange to
    transfer gearbox.
    4. Raise propeller shaft at gearbox end detach
    coupling from spigot at differential and withdraw
    shaft.
    NOTE: For replacement of spigot (pinion
    flange centralising peg). See REAR AXLE
    AND FINAL DRIVE, Overhaul, Axle
    Differential Assembly
    Overhaul
    Service repair no - 47.15.12
    NOTE: Refer to front propeller shaft
    overhaul procedure for gearbox end of
    shaft. The SGF rubber coupling is a
    non-serviceable item.
    Refit
    5. Locate flexible coupling over spigot, align
    scribed marks and secure at transfer gearbox.
    Tighten to 47 Nm.
    6. Secure flexible coupling to axle flange with three
    nuts and bolts and Tighten to 78 Nm.
    FLEXIBLE COUPLING
    NOTE: Flexible coupling should only be
    removed if a new coupling is to be fitted.
    Remove
    1. Remove rear propeller shaft. See Rear
    Propeller Shaft.
    2. Remove nuts and bolts securing flexible
    coupling to propeller shaft.
    Refit
    3. Reverse removal procedure. Fit nuts and bolts.
    Tighten to 78 Nm.


    I can only imagine that you didn't install it correctly (that would be hard to stuff up) or you didn't do it up tight enough

    ... as harry wrote earlier - "many critics on here deride the coupling, but if you don't drive sideways on logs, it is a good thing, i actually think i should never have changed the other car to a rear uni"

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Atwell, Western Australia
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    can you go much tighter than a rattle gun?

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Heathridge, W.A.
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    Quote Originally Posted by pistolpete View Post
    can you go much tighter than a rattle gun?
    My understanding is yes, I was told that after tightening wheel nuts with the rattle gun you should give a final tighten with the breaker bar and socket.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lismore, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by pistolpete View Post
    How much offroad stuff have you done? Mine have been fine until I get sandy or muddy.

    I did the centre bush also.
    Done a bit of deep mud. Full articulation + on rough terrain (Dislocated rear springs). Also a little beach work including full articulation on rocky areas of the beach. Had a look yesterday and the donut is still good.
    Warren

    Currently Landroverless - Still interested
    Formerly: 2003 D2a Update TD5 Auto. Platinum edition. ARB Bar, 36" LED light bar, cargo barrier, dual batteries.

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