Thread: Tdi300 is doing my head in.

There are times that diesel owners have to resort to diesel shops - this can be one of those times. And not just a mechanic, but a proper diesel specialist.

Before you do however, bring your vehicle back to spec. Use your spare parts to put the fuel system back to normal. If necessary, use that 2nd lift pump, clean out the sedimenter, use your old fuel filter and check the lines for cracks and leaks. If your fuel lift pump is a delphi brand, clean the small filter at the top.

Then make sure you are not loosing any HP air - both to the plenum and to the injector pump.

Reset the timing to the middle ( I find that a 11mm drill with the reduced shank and a little emery paper works).

Clean air hoses, refit the breather (It's necessary for venting the pressure buildup by virtue of a turbo diesel) and then go a see a diesel shop and get them to check the settings on the injector pump. At the very least they will be able to say whether or not the pump is at fault. It's worth the money for the diagnosis - the spanner work you can do.

My read of the faults seems to indicate lack of fuel under boost - either a dodgy lift pump, blocked filter or air getting into the line . And, maybe an HP air leak on the line from the turbo to the IP.

Is it worth my time and money to try a new lifter pump? Before I condem it to a shop? It is a factory lifter pump.

The hard line that goes from the turbo to the injection pump has no leaks. I pulled it off and cleaned it out and blew through it from the turbo end and it held pressure.

The disco the injection pump came from was a company car used to transport people from Sydney airport to a private fishing cottage and was stock as a rock when I got it so I think the injection pump will be factory settings. And to back that when I pulled the top off last week the screws were not scared and the needle only had one wear mark. ( I put it back exactly how it was) I want it running right before I tweak it.

Just making sure when you said HP air you are saying high pressure air? And what is IP? Injection pump? I just want to be clear in what I am reading.

You've got most things covered and correct as far as I can tell from your description. (being a fellow tdi owner & your interpretation of HP & IP are correct)

Another lift pump is unlikely to fix the problem given that you added a electric version - but try another lift pump if you have a supplier nearby.

At least touch base with a diesel shop - you never know what info you might glean from them.

EDIT: How's the turbo waste gate & the feed from the turbo air bleed connector?

Black smoke is possibly unburnt diesel due to insufficient air. If the IP is detecting boost it will pump more fuel into the injectors, if the boost is lost before it gets into your plenum then you could have an excess of fuel, check your turbo hoses for splits and for internal delamination which could cause a blockage.

The thing on the side of the motor that takes the crank case pressure from the top of the motor is sometimes referred to as a cyclone oil separator. Make sure that it is draining freely back into the engine.

The electric pump I have in place still has to pull through the mechanical pump so that is why I am thinking it may still be restricting the flow.

I have not put a vacume gauge on it to see if it's sucking but I have checked the hose it self to the to the turbo is fine. When I had the turbo off I did have a feel of the waste gate and it did feel a little stiff but I am use too very small turbos off smaller VW engines.

How hard should it be to turn the waste gate on this?

I was able to turn it with a normal pair of pliers and a little effort and a twist of my wrist.

Originally Posted by v.w.dave

How hard should it be to turn the waste gate on this?
I was able to turn it with a normal pair of pliers and a little effort and a twist of my wrist.

I acquired a D1 300TDi with a blown motor ( Fred ) at the time it's motor expired the PO was racing a GTHO ( his words ) and a leg shot out of bed.
The reason? the waste gate was stuck shut, it had all the boost you could possibly want for a old boy racer.
Get your self a boost gauge and set the waste gate around 15 psi that's plenty as factory setting is a bit lower.
There's a couple of good threads on here dealing with the injector pump and waste gate settings.
.

Well thank you all for the help but I just got the news I didn't need right now.

Took it to a good friend of mine (Hilton p. some of you should know him) and after a few test and about 2 hours we have come to the conclusion that the piston rings are shot. It's pressurizing the block. It has only about 30psi in cyl 1,2 and 60 in cyl 4.

All caused by about 700ml of oil. Talking to Hilton he said he has never seen or heard a engine that was his far gone idle or sound so good. There is no knocks or anything.

Stupidity on my part.
looks like I am in the market for a new donk.

Thanks guys.

Compression pressures that low can be caused by tight valves, or bent conrods. The crankcase pressure can be head gasket blown into the pushrod gallery/s.

Firstly, check for tight valve clearances, then remove the head and inspect piston heights (for bent rods) and gasket condition. It MAYBE something obvious and not requiring a complete engine rebuild. Bent rods can be changed out in the vehicle, and rings also as long as the bores aren't worn excessively.

It may sound weird also but when the engine was transported, did anyone stick a rag into the inlet port????

This will cause loss of power, low compression due to a lack of air getting in during cranking, and black smoke. I disagree that black smoke is oil; it is ALWAYS burnt diesel. Oil will be bluey tinged, and white is unburnt diesel.

JC