Thread: 300tdi injecter pump problem

start with the wiring to the fuel cut solenoid then the fuel cut solenoid itself.

Should add i'm a spray painter and know very little about engines but do wish to learn, so with that out how do i do these things

ok..


Above that blokes knuckle you can see the nut and the spade of the fuel cut solenoid.

Before you go any further you are going to need a multimeter or a <25W12V bulb on a set of fly leads preferably with an alligator clip and a male spade on the leads.

start out on the drivers side of the vehicle looking into the engine bay, you should easily be able to identify 4 strong looking pipes that have a tight turn on them at the top near where they enter a nut each (thats the injector union nut) and then come together as they move down the side of the engine and enter the back of the distributor head of the injector pump. Which looks a lot like That but is tilted about 40 degrees towards the side of the vehicle.

Just above and slightly towards the front of where the 4 injector lines (thats those 4 strong looking pipes) bolt in you'll find the soleoid as in the first picture. Its pretty much between the i and C of Shanghi Client in the second picture.

Theres a wire that runs to it. Pull that off and with the ignition turned on (all the idiot lights come on, the glow plug light will come on then off) check for voltage at the connector you took off of the solenoid a mulitmeter should show you the same voltage as whats in the battery (I'd be happy with anything within about 1V of whats in the battery) or it should light the test light (your 12v bulb on fly leads) normally.

If the meter or the bulb show you nothing then you have a problem somewhere between the terminal connection and the battery, IF you still have the spider in the dash most likely it will be there. (thats a whole other problem)

IF you get a good indication of voltage then its time to check the connector on the wire and the connector on the solenoid, scrape them with a scribe or something similar to clean them up a bit and bend the tab in the wire side so it gives a better connection. Put it back on and try it again. If thats all it was (and I see it about once a month or so as the same injector pump is on about eleventy bazillion different vehicles) then you're fixed and away.

IF that doesnt sort it out..

Unscrew the solenoid till it comes out and inspect the plunger thats inside it for fouling and metal swarf, If its foulded with goop then you've had contaminated fuel make it to the IP and are in for some very bad news. Cleaning the solenoid might make it come good for a bit. If its got metal bits then you're in for the same but more expensive set of bad news.

Once you have the solenoid out some have a removeable plunger, remove it and then put the body back on the pump. Remove the intercooler hose from the inlet manifold (its the big one at the top thats on the passanger side of the vehicle and enters a large ribbed aluminium casting and its secured with a hose clamp.) be ready with a large block of rubber to choke that opening if you have an automatic vehicle (still works with a manual) or to stall out the engine in a manual (use 4 Hi CDL in foot on the brakes). With all preperations taken start the engine with the solenoid minus its plunger installed.

IF it starts now then the solenoid itself is the issue.

IF you have the one piece solenoid when you replace it only screw it in about 1 and a half turns and then do the steps above.


If it turns out to be an electrical issue as a short term fix if you run a wire through the firewall and connect it to the center contact of a ciggarette lighter plug you can connect that to the solenoid in the engine bay and power the solenoid from there.

Best of luck.