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Thread: Brake vacuum pump questions

  1. #1
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    Brake vacuum pump questions

    Hey guys, my pump sprung a leak the other day so I've drilled out the rivets and replaced them with bolts. Before I put it all back together I've just got a couple of questions. Do I need to lube up any bits? There was black oil behind the riveted cover, should I put a little back in? The plunger that is depressed by the engine moves freely for about 5mm and doesn't seem to move anything behind the riveted plate, is that normal?
    Other than those little doubts, seems to be pretty straightforward.

    Cheers, Pat

  2. #2
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    Talking

    Did the same job on my old D1 last Friday but did not completely remove that end cover, simply drilled out and replaced rivets one at a time with 5mm button head stainless screws an nyloc nuts, and no leak now. From memory the cover only houses the pump valves which are simple disc type so no need for lube there. Did you check the cam follower face, (inner end of pump actuator rod that runs on cam lobe) for damage to hard facing, i.e should be flat and smooth, this seems to be a potential problem area once the engine is getting up in age. I would apply a small smear of good quality engine oil to the face of the follower before replacement of the pump into the block.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazby View Post
    Did the same job on my old D1 last Friday but did not completely remove that end cover, simply drilled out and replaced rivets one at a time with 5mm button head stainless screws an nyloc nuts, and no leak now. From memory the cover only houses the pump valves which are simple disc type so no need for lube there. Did you check the cam follower face, (inner end of pump actuator rod that runs on cam lobe) for damage to hard facing, i.e should be flat and smooth, this seems to be a potential problem area once the engine is getting up in age. I would apply a small smear of good quality engine oil to the face of the follower before replacement of the pump into the block.
    Did you bother with setting the engine to TDC on No.1 cylinder? I am planning on swapping my pump ths weekend as mine is also slightly leaking around the welsh plug as well as the end plate - a sign of impending failure... managed to source a genuine replacement for a reasonable cost from the UK... Just not sure how critical it is to set it up to TDC??
    cheers,
    Chookie
    '98 300Tdi Disco

  4. #4
    Discovery-94 Guest
    I had mine off a couple of times and never bothered with TDC, can't say it was too difficult to get it back in place however maybe a brand new pump has a bit more resistance in the plunger than an old one?
    if you don't, just make sure you do a diagonal patten on the bolt tightening, so it bolts up nice and square!
    bit of oil on the cam side sounds like a good idea too!

  5. #5
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    Talking

    Chookie, I did not initially set engine on TDC but there was a fair amount of spring pressure on the bolts that hold the pump to the block, so as I loosened the bolts I rotated the engine to loosen the pressure on the pump push rod.
    After removing the pump I turned the engine further to get the cam lobe turned away to the "back of cam" minimum lift position, this meant the bolts would enter the bolt holes and start with no pressure to re-fix the pump body to the block. My pump also gave the appearance that the plate body welch plugs were leaking but in fact were not, so good luck with yours.

  6. #6
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    Can't imagine how you got a drill in there Gazby, I could barely swing the spanner! Could see myself in the cam follower face, guess that's a good sign. Cheers for the advice re. oil. I've fixed the leak and get pretty good suction from it now but my brakes are still buggered :/ Might need to take a closer look.

  7. #7
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    sailing on

    Quote Originally Posted by PJay View Post
    --- get pretty good suction from it now but my brakes are still buggered
    Is your brake pedal hard while the car isn't stopping abruptly?

    .

  8. #8
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    Sure is! Got some advice?
    I pumped the pedal then turned the car on and the pedal went slightly softer and I could slowly press it further.
    I read that it's possible when pads are worn (like mine are) and the brake oil reservoir is on min (like mine was) that under hard braking the reservoir could empty and suck air in. Was going to bleed the lines tomorrow and get some new pads asap!

    Pat

  9. #9
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    Talking Oop's

    PJay, you may have misunderstood, I DID remove the vac pump from the engine, the pump assembly was in my workshop bench vice whilst I was individually drilling out rivets and replacing them with the nuts and bolts.
    As I am now old and no longer flexible I was unable to wriggle in there and drill the rivets with pump fitted to engine, which may be possible with a right angled air powered drill (which I do not have), like you I found it difficult just to swing the spanner in order to refit the pump and tighten the six bolts.

  10. #10
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    pad firm, brake quick

    Quote Originally Posted by PJay View Post
    Got some advice?
    Not yet, one of my vehicles that is fitted with ABS, it is doing the same with a hard pedal and poor braking effort ( the ABS light does go out as soon as I move a couple of yards ), so we are both working towards the same end on that point, my next move with my job is to check the run out of the rotors with a dial gauge as the wheel bearings were serviced last oil change.

    and get some new pads asap!
    When fitting new pads, make a rule of getting yourself a set of wheel hub seals and repacking your wheel bearings with a good quality wheel bearing grease ( I use a high temperature grease that is made for boat trailer hub's ).
    Inspect the surface of the bearing cups where the rollers sit for any signs of pitting or chattering, if damaged fit new bearings and if its one out it's all out, keep the best of the old bearings for spares if you want.

    New bearings should be good for 200,000 Kilometres when adjusted regularly and serviced the same time with with fresh grease.
    Properly adjusted bearings then stop the rotors wavering, pushing the pads into the callipers, with the pads presented square off to the rotors the braking effort is then instantaneous as the pads are seated perfectly first time up.

    The rotors have a minimum size, if this has been reached then you must fit new ones and that must be done in pairs.

    that under hard braking the reservoir could empty and suck air in. Was going to bleed the lines tomorrow
    If there was any air in the lines the pedal would not be hard, instead the pedal would be spongy.

    .

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