Thread: Head bolt torque

What engine? TD5 is 30NM, 65NM, then 90deg, 180deg, 45deg.
I did mine without an angle gauge, marked the top of the bolts to use as an alignment guide, plus used the torque wrench lined up with position on the motor. Have not put the motor back in yet and fired up though.
Did have me worried, but was no real problem.

you could use the old 3.5 settings. but that would be wrong.

use the in stages method as described in the RAVE.

Don't worry too much about the starting point. Do some tests with your torque wrench and some other bolts - you'll find that 20nm or 15 ft/lbs is best described as 'nipped up'. As long as all the main bolts are the same, it should be all good.
On my torque wrench, each complete revolution of the handle is 10nm. Even if it's off the scale,it should still be 30nm - close enough.
Then, use some correction fluid to mark the heads and bolts for a 90 degree turn. ( mark 12 oclock on the bolt - 3 oclock on the head) When you've done the first set, use a different colour for the 2nd turn.( 6 oclock on the head) That way you can see that you've done all the bolts.

Originally Posted by langy

On my torque wrench, each complete revolution of the handle is 10nm. Even if it's off the scale,it should still be 30nm - close enough.

Nooooooooo

Torque wrenches should only be used in the top2/3rds of their scale.

Repeatability is not reliable at the bottom end.

I know that my 3/8th torque wrench changes by as much as 10Nm at the 30Nmsetting ( minimum is supposedly 25) just by holding it by the handle for 20 minutes in a 15 degree test room (nominal temp is ment to be 25) Thats a 30% error.

sounds like a V8, I use the 3.5 head tension settings.

I never use the torque angle settings on the V8 alloy blocks. Last 15 or so years never a problem.

JC

Torque might have been OK. On my old 3.9 two or three of the head studs pulled out of the aluminium block, which should have been checked for hardness but was not. Led to early gasket failure.