Fossicker
Has anyone fitted a tap in the heater hose to turn of the flow in the hotter months. I ask this as the of all the vechicles Ive driven the TDi seems to be the slowest at getting up to temperature from a cold start but very quick to get to get to high a temperature under load. (It has a new thermostat)
When I finally got to looking at how the water flows it seemed a odd set up.
Firstly the water flow to the heater is picked from the rear of the cylinder head, goes to the heater and returns via pipe along the head and back into the bottom radiator hose then to pump and back to the block. This flow never stops.
The other bypass is from the thermostat housing, which via a hose goes back into the pump and onto the block. In theory this one is blocked when the temperature opens the themostat fully which only happens when things are getting high.
There is also a small flow from the thermostat housing to the header tank which will return via the hose that goes to the bottom radiator hose.
In addtion to this there is a 12 mm hole in the baffle in the radiator that allows some water to come in the top hose and go via this hole and go straight out the bottom hose. To me what this means is that there is significant amount of water going around this system and not going anywhere near the radiator. So I ask the question about the heater hose tap.
I have managed to block the hole in the radiator baffle.
Bit of a long splurge here but, the set up seems a bit daft.
Maybe I got it all wrong but thats how I see it
Last edited by Silverone; 15th November 2012 at 02:06 PM. Reason: errors
AT REST
High water flow rate around all the bypasses is what keeps the head and block temps even throughout. Once the thermostat is fully open the path through the radiator has the lowest resistance to flow. You could rig a 4 port heater valve off a VS-VY V6 Commodore, find a vacuum supply and solenoid valve to operate it. These allow full bypass when the heater circuit is off.
Fossicker
By passes may keep the head & block at even temperature but it wont help much towards keeping it at a acceptable temperature. Some test we did a few years back on motors showed that the inlet & outlet side of the radiators did not have extreme differences when motors where working hard. What I am really saying is that these TDi 300 are sending to much via bypass system thats one reason there cooling system is marginalOriginally Posted by bee utey
RoverLord
Not sure what you're meaning by marginal.
the cooling system is more or less the same as the tdi200 and I've been running around for months with no fans other than the ones in front of the AC condensor.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
a properly maintained cooling system in a 300tdi is more than adequate.
people seem to think it doesnt require maintainence and that a 20 year old radiator will still be efficient. I drive mine through the hottest deserts in west aust daily with no problems
Fossicker
I wasnt really looking for any sort of dispute, but what I do know is that this disco has a clean radiator, new themostat, fan works, cap holds pressure & doesnt loose water but gets hotter going up a the same hill (105-107C) towing a caravan than any other vehicle we have used. (the standard temperature gauge doesnt move from normal) So all I was really asking had anyone blocked the heater hose to send more water via the radiator.
RoverLord
no point, the heater matrix in the cab heater IS a radiator and 105-107deg C isn't worth worrying about during periods of high load, if it rises markedly faster than it cools down when the load comes off then you have something to worry about but most likely a radiator rodding will take care of that issue.
If you were getting a sudden rise or spike up to 120ish (nice slow climb from 95ish to 105ish and then a quick jump up to 120ish) that took a long time to come back down and you were using about a liter of coolant a month then I would be worried.
@14psi the boiling point of plain water is 119 degrees
a 30% concentration of generic ethyl glycol has a boiling point of 104 degrees at sea level.
the same mix at 14psi would have a boiling temp of 130 degrees(ish)
Link to generic concentration chart for ethyl glycol
Water boiling points at various pressures
A post I did earlier that covers normalised gauge movements.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Moderator
Block the bleed hole in the radiator divider baffle, to me that's the one that doesn't make any sense and everyone that does solder it off has better temp control in summer.
And I agree, the cooling system is marginal for a hard working vehicle.
If you block the flow to the (rad, typo) heater core you will get higher running temps.
I did a header tank in the heater of the Deefer so by-passed it and didn't get another for six months.
The engine ran hotter without it, and the cooling capacity was definitely better with it installed.
As Dave said, it's a radiator anyway.
Fossicker
The heater would only act as radiator if air was going passing though it or better still if the heater fan was on.
Fossicker
Your saying blocking the baffle in the radiator doesnt make sense but those that have done it have better control in the summer?. Also blocking the flow to the heater does not does not block the flow to the radiator in it fact directs more coolant to it.
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks