Definitely go the genuine GKN, thats all we stock and sell, aftermarket ones are bothers.
cheers, Mario
So i figured i'd give a bit of an update.
I've sorted out the following:
- Panhard Rod Bushes
- 2 out 4 Tie Rod Ends
- Tailshaflt Rubber Coupling
- Removed the Spotlights
- Replaced Rear Muffler
- Replaced Oil Pressure Switch
- Replaced Transfer Case Mounts
- Wiper Blades
Still to go:
- Damper Rod Bushes (Do i just replace the whole thing?)
- Front & Rear Brake Pads
- RH Rear and Centre Tail Golbe
- Rear Electric Windows
Figured i'd also add a pic
![]()
Definitely go the genuine GKN, thats all we stock and sell, aftermarket ones are bothers.
cheers, Mario
GKN?
With the question about the damper rod, if its the steering damper just change the whole unit.
Hi Chops,
I was under the impression the airbags had a ten year life span after that they needed replacement. I've taken discos over the pits 96, 97 and 98 and a 97 P38A here and I've never had them check the expiry of the airbags. I got pinged on door seals which surprised me and one inspection I had to remove the window tint it had bubbled on the back window.
Thanks Nomad, I was thinking this is normally the case, as in no one seems to be bothered checking.
On my last RW, I was told to replace a brakes rubber on the foot pedal, and fix the power steering leak
I bought a new pedal rubber, about $20 or something.
I steam cleaned the engine compartment, which it didn't need, it had been off road once, with no mud involved, and having not long replaced the water pump (V8 Auto), there was no oil around the engine at all.
On return for RW clearence, he didn't lift the bonnet, or even open the door.
I was not a happy camper. And it all cost me over $200. Total rip off![]()
It's like finding a good mechanic (if you need one). I have been using the same bloke to my RWC's for ages. While there are no short cuts any more, he is fair and consistent. Airbags are not a RW fail unless they have gone off. They will however check the airbag light on the dash to make sure it lights up when the ignition is first turned on, then goes off after it has done its check.
If in doubt, download the RWC requirements from the Vicroads website. It is very detailed and I have successfully argued points with my tester on occasion, and I keep a hard copy with me when I'm there to point things out.
Cheers - Gav.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Half the Disco 1's on the road have the SRS light on full-time. I have a couple of good computers here if the need arises but I usually pull the globe out (dunno if that'll work here in Vic, in QLD that's what I used to do).
Good idea about the requirements paperwork on hand. Some mechanics are dead set ****holes who'll root you up the clacker on everything
Trav
This is what you need to go over (in Vic) - http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rd...0/VSI26web.pdf - you may be surprised about what is actually required and what some places try to make you repair. One example is the windscreen, I have been told several times my screen needs replacing because of a small crack or a chip, but it is clearly laid out where this is acceptable and where it is not.
Have a read and go over what they have told you is wrong and see how you go.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Thanks for the link mate. Had a read through it the other day and doesn't mention any window has to work other than the drivers window so i'm not going to rush to fix the two rears.
Also one of the mechanics mentioned changing the tyres but after reading the document i can only assume he was drunk at the time.
The final few parts arrived the other day so hoping to have this bad boy on the road by the end of the month
Also, anyone care to suggest a half decent mechanic to get the RWC done at? I'm in south melbourne but most mechanics around here are far too pricey for my liking.
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