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Thread: Alpine Window Repair

  1. #1
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    Alpine Window Repair

    I am finally getting on to the alpine windows to check how bad the rust is, I have taken heaps of photo's as I go, so when the job is finished I will post them as it may assist others with the same problem.

    1/ First your thoughts, (se pics) I know I should get the rust cut out, but I am inclined to have a go a fibreglassing them, is there any reason why fibreglass won't work.

    2/ If I go the firbeglass way, should I rust proof the area first, then fibreglass or fibreglass first then rust proof.

    Regards
    Rich
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    Hi
    This is what I would do if I couldn't afford to have the metal work done properly. Grind away all the rust then treat the metal with a rust converter. Once the rust converter has done its thing you should be ok to use fiberglass. When laying up the fiberglass make sure you don't rush, allow it to cure, you can always lay up more if you need to.
    I would think that the resin would offer enough protection to the metal instead of rust proofing as the resin may react or not adhere to the rust protector you use.

  3. #3
    Judo's Avatar
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    I really need to do mine as well... I'll be interested to see how you go!
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    I really need to do mine as well... I'll be interested to see how you go!
    Slow & steady at the moment, about half way finished, hopefully I will knock it over tomorrow.

    I bet replacing the windows will turn out to be the hardest part.

    Will post pics & hints when finished.

    Regards
    Rich

  5. #5
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    If you have the trims out and you have cleaned up the rust yourself already, then just drive round to the local panel beater and get the metal welded in. Job done correctly and then you can do all the rest, easy! Shouldn't cost more than about $150 or $200 if he sprays it as well.
    Putting the windows back in is not too hard but very time consuming, especially if you do it properly and check for leaks before the trims go back (always use new rubbers). This is a must.
    Do it once, do it right.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLOWBOAT View Post
    If you have the trims out and you have cleaned up the rust yourself already, then just drive round to the local panel beater and get the metal welded in. Job done correctly and then you can do all the rest, easy! Shouldn't cost more than about $150 or $200 if he sprays it as well.
    Putting the windows back in is not too hard but very time consuming, especially if you do it properly and check for leaks before the trims go back (always use new rubbers). This is a must.
    Do it once, do it right.
    Mate you make a couple of good points, but have you considered that some people like to do things themselves, or that due to finiancal restraints may not be able to afford $150 - $200 on top of 2 sets of new rubbers @ $154 + del.

    This is the second time that you have replied to my posts, with a holier than holy attitude about the way I do things.

    I have checked your posts and you don't do it to others, so I have obviously upset you, re my post in the Rust thread.

    SLOWBOAT, I'm sure I wouldn't be the first person on this site, who does things differently to yourself, but please consider before you post a reply whether the holier than holy attitude is really required.

    Regards
    Rich

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    Any updates Rich?

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    Quote Originally Posted by comocean View Post
    Any updates Rich?
    This says it all (see pic), working out of my new garage lol.


    Hopefully the weather today will be a bit better, but still just getting enough drizzle to slow things down, it has been like this basically since I took the windows out.

    Regards
    Rich
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  9. #9
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    You're obviously not in Melbourne... It's going to be 38 today!
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlliesLRover View Post
    Mate you make a couple of good points, but have you considered that some people like to do things themselves, or that due to finiancal restraints may not be able to afford $150 - $200 on top of 2 sets of new rubbers @ $154 + del.

    This is the second time that you have replied to my posts, with a holier than holy attitude about the way I do things.

    I have checked your posts and you don't do it to others, so I have obviously upset you, re my post in the Rust thread.

    SLOWBOAT, I'm sure I wouldn't be the first person on this site, who does things differently to yourself, but please consider before you post a reply whether the holier than holy attitude is really required.

    Regards
    Rich
    Sorry this is not intended to upset you or anyone else, if it did please accept my apologies.
    It is just that I know lots of people do patch ups like this and don't realise they have compromised the structural integrity of their vehicle, now made it unroadworthy and it will be extremely hard to reseal fully. Also if someone else purchases this vehicle further down the track and wants to restore it up a bit they usually sell them for parts and there is another one lost due to the cost of correcting too many issues.
    I suppose I would like to see all Land Rovers restored up to good condition and kept on the road.
    As for my Holier than attitude it is just I don't like fixing up stuff that could have been fixed properly when most of the preparation work has already been done. (the hard part).
    I look at things that if I can't do it right then I won't touch it at all as it will annoy the *rap out of me for ever and a day.
    Sorry again I was just offering some advice from experience.
    Cheers

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