Here is the best MS paint picture I've ever drawn that shows how I did it.
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I'm pretty sure I used a puller type with the screw in the middle too. My memory is not giving me a very clear picture though! I think the only puller type I own is a centre screw, so can't see how I used anything else.
I can't remember if it was this repair job or another, but a few times while using the puller I've had to put some extra pieces in the puzzle. Eg. a socket or spanner in the middle, depending on what edges you have to screw against. Do you have it apart? Photos are always helpful. I can't remember what it looked like now.
Otherwise, maybe someone else reading can jump in here?!?![]()
Here is the best MS paint picture I've ever drawn that shows how I did it.
![]()
if you have oil coming out of the drive spline to drive flange joint under the rubber cup. Good.
Replace the rubber cup and forget about it, Your landy has either been converted to run oil fed bearings or has leaked oil from the diff to the swivel hub and then into the bearings in a desperate effort to demonstrate to you the best method of bearing lubrication.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
thanks BLknight .aus sorry i dont understand your response do you mean if oil is leaking from the diff to the hub spline then its ok or do i need to have the diff repaired thanks .
If the oil is coming out of the splined bit right in the middle of the picture the cap is leaking so replace that.
If the oil is coming out of the joint from the flange to the hub then it needs to be unbolted and resealed
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
What, you don't like my picture Dave?
the picture itself is fine, Im guilty of doing much rougher handywork.
Its the content thats the problem...
the seal thats in front of that bearing stops the oil from getting from the swivel housing to the bearings...
why you would ever want to stop oil from getting to bearings is a mystery.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
it'll be the swivel hub oil that is leaking into the wheel bearing.
there is a mod that can be done to allow this so the wheel bearing and drive flange is oil lubricated instead if greased.
easiest fix would to put on an aftermarket drive flange and top up the swivel hub oil.
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'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
thanks to all who have helped me out. your advise has been outstanding, can anyone advise where i can look for those sealed hubs as described by jboot51 thanks .
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