Thread: TDI 300 Overheating problems

Rover Parts in Ballarat genuine is about $100!

Originally Posted by Jonesy1972

Have a look at Rimmer Bros. website in the UK, that's where I get most of my parts.
Regards
Jonesy1972

i just bought one from Rimmer Bros, much cheaper than any in OZ, but haven't had a chance to fit it yet. It's a BRITPART brand. I am having the same problem of heating up to 104 degrees when loaded up, air-conditioning on and up hills. (have an engine guardian fitted to the thermostat housing bolt). Otherwise ok running. Will be fitting it over the next week and testing it on a long trip to SouthEast WA shortly.

I have ordered the viscous coupling from Rimmer Bros. in the UK. The Landrover viscous coupling was $195, the OEM was $85 and the aftermarket was $41. I went with the OEM because the viscous coupling spins too fast for me to read "Landrover" cast into the aluminium.
I'll let you know when it gets here ( it's on back order) and if it solves the problem.

Regards
Jonesy1972

Originally Posted by Discovery-94

you can check the fan - it should always have some resistance, i.e not spin freely (especially when warm).

have you properly bled your cooling system after flushing and replacing the coolant? you could have some air in there - which might give a false reading in standard dash gauge. ((--HIGHLY recommend an aftermarket unit!!--))
also, the temp sensor in the thermostat housing could be on its way out - I had one showing me its hot when the engine was cold, straight after switching ignition on...
and you say you have replaced the thermo fans - are you positive they switch on? there is also a little switch in the thermostat housing which turns them on above a certain temperature, if its buggered it wont - so make sure you can hear them running.

and lastly, do you know whether the injection pump has been tampered with?
Mine has, to give it more whoomp, and on a hot day (late 30s, early 40s) with a/c running climbing up longer hills the temp gauge can rise slightly, however I also have a temp sender on the block so I can keep an eye on it (the dash gauges are.....average)

Good luck!

I have bled the system after I filled with new coolant (learned that lesson a few years ago). I believe the dash gauge is correct because it only rises slowly under load or at high revs, I let the gauge get upto the 3/4 mark and pull over. The temperature slowly decreases within 5 mins back to normal. To reinforce this belief, I have to climb Greenmount hill everyday in the arvo and the car gets hot on the way up, when I hit the crest and the load is removed the car quickly cools down on the downhill/level ground.

The thermo fans are working. They work immediately when I turn the air cond. on and they also work when the car is hot and I have to pull over let it cool down.

As for the injector pump, I've been told by a couple of landrover mechanics that the injector pump timing can not be adjusted. The only reason it maybe out would be due to the timing belt needing replacing or the injector pump is worn and needs to be rebuilt.

At the moment I'm just working through the cheaper options first.

Thanks for your help. I think I'll wait to see how the viscous fan goes.

Originally Posted by Jonesy1972

I have bled the system after I filled with new coolant (learned that lesson a few years ago). I believe the dash gauge is correct because it only rises slowly under load or at high revs, I let the gauge get upto the 3/4 mark and pull over. The temperature slowly decreases within 5 mins back to normal. To reinforce this belief, I have to climb Greenmount hill everyday in the arvo and the car gets hot on the way up, when I hit the crest and the load is removed the car quickly cools down on the downhill/level ground.

The thermo fans are working. They work immediately when I turn the air cond. on and they also work when the car is hot and I have to pull over let it cool down.

As for the injector pump, I've been told by a couple of landrover mechanics that the injector pump timing can not be adjusted. The only reason it maybe out would be due to the timing belt needing replacing or the injector pump is worn and needs to be rebuilt.

At the moment I'm just working through the cheaper options first.

Thanks for your help. I think I'll wait to see how the viscous fan goes.

Well that's a load of cobblers.

I have to check and adjust the timing EVERYTIME I replace a timing belt, 200 and 300 Tdi.

There are also performance timing tweaks like extra plunger lift etc etc to be performed.

Search function should show up a bit of info on 300Tdi timing adjustment/ tweaking.

JC

You said you sent the radiator in for a clean. Was it just flushed or properly rodded? The symptoms you mention - heating gradually on a hill then cooling off quickly when no more load - are exactly the ones I experienced before getting the core replaced on my radiator. (A partially blocked rad will not be able to overcome the temps on a hill, but is adequate for minimal loads). My old one was nearly totally blocked, since the fix I have had no overheating problems, even under load towing a full trailer up the hill to Ballarat from Melbourne.

Originally Posted by Spel1

You said you sent the radiator in for a clean. Was it just flushed or properly rodded? The symptoms you mention - heating gradually on a hill then cooling off quickly when no more load - are exactly the ones I experienced before getting the core replaced on my radiator. (A partially blocked rad will not be able to overcome the temps on a hill, but is adequate for minimal loads). My old one was nearly totally blocked, since the fix I have had no overheating problems, even under load towing a full trailer up the hill to Ballarat from Melbourne.

I took it into Natrad and they said it was 20% blocked and cleaned it and charged me $140. I am not sure what they did, do you think I need to take it back and get the core replaced?
Regards
Jonesy

GET AN ENGINE MONITOR for the temperature
the watchdog goes under a bolt on the head and measures the HEAD temperature not the water or lack thereof. this is WAY more reliable than the OEM gauge which works like a warning light by the time it works it is too late the damage is done