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Thread: Quality thermostat

  1. 7th February 2013, 04:52 PM #1
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    Quality thermostat

    Having watched the engine temp on the TM4 for a while I am convinced that my thermostat is faulty as it takes too long to get up to operating temp of around 82 C - 25 km at hwy speed or 20+ minutes around town on a warm day.

    What is the best brand of thermostat for my D1 diesel? Dont want to put anything dodgy in.

    thanks
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  2. 7th February 2013, 07:02 PM #2
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    Waxstat is the OE brand and the opening temp is up around 87*C, but....

    if your car isn't getting warm, it may be the oil t/stat jammed open too.

    Pull your water t/stat and test the opening temp, (pot of water, t/stat suspended by some wire and a digi thermometer)
    If it tests ok your engine oil t/stat is jammed open.
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  3. 7th February 2013, 08:26 PM #3
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    thks Rick
    Didnt know there was an oil thermostat!
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  4. 7th February 2013, 08:56 PM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Linds View Post
    thks Rick
    Didnt know there was an oil thermostat!
    Yep, oil t/stat is behind the oil union and two bolt flange pointing towards the chassis rail above the oil filter.
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  5. 20th February 2013, 09:03 PM #5
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    Ready to put the new Waxstat thermostat in. Is there a recommended way to avoid letting air into the cooling system when I do this- I Know the 300tdi can be prone to airlocks in the system?

    thks
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  6. 22nd February 2013, 07:50 AM #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Linds View Post
    Ready to put the new Waxstat thermostat in. Is there a recommended way to avoid letting air into the cooling system when I do this- I Know the 300tdi can be prone to airlocks in the system?

    thks
    bump
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  7. 22nd February 2013, 08:05 AM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Linds View Post
    bump
    The 8mm bleed hose connected to the thermostat housing and running under the a/c pump, should clear any air all by itself. Make sure it isn't blocked at the black plastic tee fitting near the radiator. It is a jet pump that acts to remove bubbles from the engine and the top of the rad and convey them to the expansion tank. If working properly you need to do nothing other than check the tank level after running the engine at fast idle for a few minutes.
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  8. 22nd February 2013, 04:37 PM #8
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    ok so I took out the old thermostat, siphoned maybe half a litre out of the housing so as not to spill it, refitted the new one, reassembled, topped it up at the filler on the thermostat housing. Let it odle for a while, level in tank looked good and took it for a drive. about 10 km up the road the coolant alarm went off. Pulled over, let a bit of air out of the DS radiator ( where the coolant alarm sensor is) via the 8mm hose there - it self bled and off I went. Repeat this 3 times and now Im home.

    So

    How do I bleed the cooling system properly now that I have cleverly let lots of air in?

    Need car tomorrow so any help appreciated

    thanks

    edit: did a search and found a how to thread..so ok

    Lindsay
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  9. 22nd February 2013, 05:38 PM #9
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    should be self bleeding, i havent ever had a problem when replacing cooling components, make sure the heater is on when trying to bleed the system
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  10. 22nd February 2013, 07:44 PM #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    The 8mm bleed hose connected to the thermostat housing and running under the a/c pump, should clear any air all by itself. Make sure it isn't blocked at the black plastic tee fitting near the radiator. It is a jet pump that acts to remove bubbles from the engine and the top of the rad and convey them to the expansion tank. If working properly you need to do nothing other than check the tank level after running the engine at fast idle for a few minutes.
    Some time ago I replaced the original black plastic tee with a brass tee. From what you are saying, the replacement part does not replicate the original. Perhaps this is why I had problems today?
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