Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Cranked/kinked Front arms?

  1. #1
    Vee_que Guest

    Cranked/kinked Front arms?

    After Raising my mates D1 V8, the caster and diff angle changed unacceptably to me, the steering also became too light for mine and my mates liking.

    We have spare radius arms, so I was wondering if anyone has taken them to a spring works and had them bent to the correct angle?

    Otherwise: Is there a difference in the arms available, I've seen them as cheap as $400 for the fronts, but I still think it's a big much for two bits of metal.

    The Disco won't be going any higher but might end up with slightly bigger than stock wheels once we take it off roading and stop towing with it all the time.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide - Torrens Park
    Posts
    7,291
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The diff angle isn't an issue. What you need to do is castor correction via slotted swivels. If you do a search there is loads of information.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    421
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just wait, and buy some Superior Superflex arms?

    Cheers, Adam.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Bris
    Posts
    80
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Re: Cranked/kinked Front arms?

    How high did you lift it? Out of curiosity

  5. #5
    Vee_que Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by kreecha View Post
    Just wait, and buy some Superior Superflex arms?

    Cheers, Adam.
    Where do you get them from? Wait for what? More money? I'm asking as there might have been a better way.

    Bigjon: Thanks, no-one mentioned that in the 2" lift thread or at the Land Rover place I go by, the diff angle is out a fair bit though from stock, I can promise that.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You can bend the arms, there was an excellent tutorial once by a Kiwi bloke on the 'net but long gone unfortunately.

    The big problem is that to get the castor right your pinion angle will then be very wrong, and I'm with Big Jon on this, my preferred method is slotting the swivels.

    If the pinion is pointing up at the t/case all you need is a double cardan front shaft just to reduce the angles on the unis at the t/case end and everything will be sweet, and with nothing else altered that's where the pinion should still be pointing.

    What distance do you have between the bump stop and diff pads ? (assuming stock bump stops in reasonable condition)

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!