As you get drive with the CDL engaged I suspect one of your diffs or axles has given up the ghost. If an axles or diff goes all your drive goes to the least resistance and spines the brocken bits. Locking the CDL forces drive to the other end.
Ok this weeks problem is.............had just dropped boy off at his mates place, turned 1 corner no probs, 2nd corner it made some clunking almost grinding noises (when on full turn) & lost all drive. The motor didn't rev down for a fair while, but I managed to find a spot to coast into & park. Auto box didn't seem to be engaging anything except for once when I put it into Park it made some grinding noises till I put it into any other gear. I mucked around with transfer box & when I put it into CDL (centre diff lock) it engaged all gears. I had to put it backwards & forwards a few times but it finally caught in ordinary drive.............for about 500m then had to coast into parking spot again.
Did all the same stuff again & it got me almost home, 3k's, till I turned the last corner & had to coast into my driveway. It was starting to rain again, doesn't Victoria or SA or WA need this not us again, & just said something along the lines of "stuff it" & went to get out of the car. Mrs yells at me it's moving, I said a few things along the lines of "I bloody well know" & "yes it is in Park woman".
Putting it into CDL was the only way of getting it into Park, I did notice a couple of times the smell of burnt oil but wasn't sure if it was me or not as when I got home I popped the bonnet & there was no smell.
All this 2 days after getting the radiator & motor flushed & cleaned grrr
Does anybody have any idea's, would be muchly appreciated, hopefully it will be nothing to bad as we are just a couple of pensioners & can't really afford to much more to go wrong with this Disco & can't afford another car at all.
As you get drive with the CDL engaged I suspect one of your diffs or axles has given up the ghost. If an axles or diff goes all your drive goes to the least resistance and spines the brocken bits. Locking the CDL forces drive to the other end.
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
youve done an axle, drive flange, cv shaft or a diff center. (theres a slight chance you may have damage to the center diff)
Ive got a stack of driveline parts in a wreck Im about due to play swapsies with between my vehicles.
If theres anything I've got that will be in the leftovers/spares bin when I'm finished its yours for the asking.
IF theres a miracle and you can get your vehicle down to here when its happening (likely to be next weekend) or I can shove some other obligations out of the calander I'll see about trying to get them to you
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
As per Landover, drive flange has stripped.
This would give those results.
To check I imagine you could,
-engage CDL
-apply handbrake
-select PARK
-chock atleast two wheels, 1 front, 1 rear
-jack 1 wheel up at a time and try and turn by hand.
If you've got a stripped drive flange the wheel will turn.
Fairly easy and low cost repair.
You could narrow it down, with the engine running, foot on brake, get someone to look under the car at the tailshafts, as you put the gearbox into Drive with CDL disengaged.
Which ever tailshaft is turning, the problem is at that end.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Thanks heaps (everybody) for the quick advice & offers of help, the clunking/grinding noise came from the drivers side front (95% sure) as it could be heard on drivers side & not passengers but only on full turn.
I'll try jboot51's idea tomorrow if it's not raining to see what happens.
ps again thanks for your offer, very very much appreciated
most likely youve done the short half shaft on that side, very common <2hrs to fix if all the parts are on hand.
Short method.
jack up and jack stand front axle
remove wheel
remove rubber cup
remove circlip save the spacing shims
remove caliper, tie to spring
remove split pin, remove tie rod nut, remove tie rod
remove swivel seal
remove upper swivel pin
remove outer swivel housing+stub axle assembly
extract CV+axle. for axle removal If you're lucky its snapped at the CV end
remove the broken section from the CV (if you're lucky its snapped at the diff end) (no you cant have it both ways, they never snap in the middle or in a convenient spot that will give you enough to work with from both sides)
If its left a bit in the diff housing
Remove the fill plug, remove the drain plug + drain the oil
bend a piece of 6mm steel rod into a curve (adjust it as you go)
rotate the diff till you can see the side gear, insert the rod and hit it with a hammer to push the snapped bit out.
Extract the snapped bit of axle (I use a magnetic extractor or my mechanics claw, sometimes a bit of hooked wire will work)
do most of the above in reverse to get it all back together.
easy.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Mowed the lawn today, driest it's been, so I could work around & under Disco. Put it into ordinary drive reverse & moved it, no worries, mowed where it was then went to put it into D & guess what, no go. No noise or anything, so put it into CDL to put it back were it was, no worries, but I noticed there is a definite "lurch", my foot was on the brake as it should be. The back seems to go down or "bite" for want of a better term & it seems as if the front rises.
Now it's bloody well raining again grrr so will have to leave the above tests till tomorrow![]()
Hi, I tried your 1st lot of suggestions - CDL engaged, in Park, wheels chocked, jack up 1 side at a time & turn tyres by hand.
Well.............they both turned quite easily, I got wife to spin wheels while I got down amongst the green ants(hate them) & watched the front drive shaft. It didn't turn & I couldn't turn it by hand, not even a tiny bit.
Does this mean diff is gone??
Thanks again for all the help![]()
When turned are they turning in opposite directions or same directions?
With CDL in and back end on ground the front shaft should be still as it's effectively one shaft right through front to back
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