Thread: Crank Angle Sensor

$300 is ridiculous.

Even If you unplug the fuel temp sender on the 14CUX system the ECU sees a value of 50 degreesC and will still allow starting. Conversely try that on a flapper EFI system and it'll stop the engine

JC

Originally Posted by Grimace

Mate whom ever quoted you that price should be shot. All sensors are relatively affordable. The costly items are the maf and the IAC Valve (stepper).

Cant recall exact pricing off the top of my head but I got water temp x2, fuel temp and oil pressure sensor for under $100 for the lot.
I have brand new spares in a tool box as the prices allowed me to do so!

$300 bring on the death penalty!!!

Do you remember who you got them from??

Originally Posted by OlliesLRover

Do you remember who you got them from??

Can't recall of the top of my head, it may have been LRDirect, I have a large number of orders from them. I generally spend a bit of time researching part numbers prior as you need to have knowledge of part numbers to order online.

The Fuel temp sensor for the d1 and RRC 3.9 V8 is ETC6661

EDIT: I should also add that 90% of my orders, for service parts are through either LRdirect, paddockspares, or island4x4. But I generally research part numbers and look for who has the lot of what I need for the best price and order away.
EDIT2: And island4x4 has the sensor for a reasonable price at the moment http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-tem...61-p-4720.html

Originally Posted by Grimace

Can't recall of the top of my head, it may have been LRDirect, I have a large number of orders from them. I generally spend a bit of time researching part numbers prior as you need to have knowledge of part numbers to order online.

The Fuel temp sensor for the d1 and RRC 3.9 V8 is ETC6661

EDIT: I should also add that 90% of my orders, for service parts are through either LRdirect, paddockspares, or island4x4. But I generally research part numbers and look for who has the lot of what I need for the best price and order away.
EDIT2: And island4x4 has the sensor for a reasonable price at the moment Fuel Temperature Sensor ETC6661 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Hmmmm, as somebody else mentioned bring on the death penalty.

Anyway some good news at last (I think/hope), I had it towed to my LR guy and this is what he has found - the ECU engine temp sensor and plug were both stuffed and were giving fluctuating readings, jumping from 40deg to 90deg back and forth.

He said what this was doing was like telling the ECU, the engine is hot the engine is cold ect ect.

I really didn't understand it as he talks at a hundred miles an hour and lost me very early on.

So could any kind person explain in laymans terms what he is talking about and how it related to my problem.

ps; I have to hitchike to Silverdale tomorrow to pick it up, so if anyone sees a silly old man with a thumb in the air and showing a bit of bandy old leg, plse take pity on him and don't run him over

In a very basic sense The ECU 'sees' numbers/ values from various sensors, to enable it to inject fuel at the right time and volume. In the case of the engine coolant temp sensor If the engine is actually warm, and the ECU sees 40 degrees, it thinks it is time to inject more fuel as a warm up program (Like a choke if you like) and since the engine is actually at operating temp there goes your black smoke and poor running. If the engine is cold then a 90 degree reading will mean poor cold start and running due to leaner fuel delivery.

The primary function of the fuel temp switch however is to enable good hot starts, it does this by leaning out the fuel delivery during cranking to avoid flooding.

It is important to mention here that the reasonably primitive 14CUX computer doesn't get confused, it just does EXACTLY as it is told, and it doesn't have the logic to decipher a rapidly fluctuating reading as a fault. It just keeps switching back and forth...

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

In a very basic sense The ECU 'sees' numbers/ values from various sensors, to enable it to inject fuel at the right time and volume. In the case of the engine coolant temp sensor If the engine is actually warm, and the ECU sees 40 degrees, it thinks it is time to inject more fuel as a warm up program (Like a choke if you like) and since the engine is actually at operating temp there goes your black smoke and poor running. If the engine is cold then a 90 degree reading will mean poor cold start and running due to leaner fuel delivery.

The primary function of the fuel temp switch however is to enable good hot starts, it does this by leaning out the fuel delivery during cranking to avoid flooding.

It is important to mention here that the reasonably primitive 14CUX computer doesn't get confused, it just does EXACTLY as it is told, and it doesn't have the logic to decipher a rapidly fluctuating reading as a fault. It just keeps switching back and forth...
JC

Thanks Justinc, now it makes more sense.

So in my case, the engine loses power whilst driving because the ECU believes the engine is cold so it gives it a bit of choke thus loss of power.

Originally Posted by justinc

In a very basic sense The ECU 'sees' numbers/ values from various sensors, to enable it to inject fuel at the right time and volume. In the case of the engine coolant temp sensor If the engine is actually warm, and the ECU sees 40 degrees, it thinks it is time to inject more fuel as a warm up program (Like a choke if you like) and since the engine is actually at operating temp there goes your black smoke and poor running. If the engine is cold then a 90 degree reading will mean poor cold start and running due to leaner fuel delivery.

The primary function of the fuel temp switch however is to enable good hot starts, it does this by leaning out the fuel delivery during cranking to avoid flooding.

It is important to mention here that the reasonably primitive 14CUX computer doesn't get confused, it just does EXACTLY as it is told, and it doesn't have the logic to decipher a rapidly fluctuating reading as a fault. It just keeps switching back and forth...

JC

That might explain why mine ALWAYS revs high on start-up, sometimes as high as 2000, then goes down in increments over a 15 to 30sec time. Also why it seems to flood on cold start-up's & I have to remove fuel pump fuse to start it easily.