Thread: Ok, had enough

I've heard of the fuel pump wiring melting as the pump starts to die and pulls too many amps, yes. Worth pulling the boot carpet up for a look I'd have thought.

Originally Posted by sheerluck

I've heard of the fuel pump wiring melting as the pump starts to die and pulls too many amps, yes. Worth pulling the boot carpet up for a look I'd have thought.

Common melted points include the pump housing connector and the loom connector over the rear muffler. There are bound to be more meltable nylon connector housings further forward in the loom. I can't remember exactly but if you test an old pump with a spare battery and it draws over 10 amps its stuffed. A new one uses 6 amps or less.

I pulled the fuse, no change

Okies, UPDATE. It's turning over after much gnashing of teeth in the starter motor area! Now, can these things only be 180 degrees out re- distributor or will the locator at the bottom where the dizzy slots in rotate to wherever? I tried a couple of times so far to drop it in at tdc on compression but now all Im getting is intermittent pop and seems like backfire. Nice to hear it roll over tho

They can be out multitudes of degrees.

I set compression on one at about 6 DBTDC drop the dizzy in and then make sure that its engaged into the drive, mark the outside of the dizzy bell, hold it down lightly and then work the rest of the firing order around.

If nothing else is pooching the game it should now start. (but it may not run well)

To check the spark make up a test plug anchor it in a position where you can see both it and a timing light and crank it over.

if you get a spark while the timing light is firing and its showing the timing mark at or around 6 dbtdc then you're on for timing and the problem is air, fuel or compression. Dont forget to use the test plug on at least 2 other lead positions from the dizzy as occasionally the dizzy cap contacts can be the problem.

to test the fuel turn the key to ignition once or twiceto prime the system then crack the fuel rail/line if you dont get a spillage immediately turn the ignition on. for EFI prime the system, turn the ignition on then quickly poke the schreader valve with a long screwdriver.

if you cant here the fuel pump, find the fuel relay, pull it and bridge it out. if you dont get the fuel pump noises and delivery then the problem is either the supply volts, the wiring to the pump the pump earth the pump or (if you hear pump noise but get no flow) a collapsed strainer or clogged filter.

Best of luck

Would a malfunction in the gas system controller keep the fuel shut out?

Originally Posted by xstriple

Would a malfunction in the gas system controller keep the fuel shut out?

Gas systems usually shut down the injectors not the fuel pump. Most systems use a special relay that shuts off the injectors a short interval after gas power is applied, Their failure mode is to leave the injectors on.

Once you have randomly fiddled with the distributor you need to get back to square one, which is finding no.1 TDC firing stroke. If you rotate the engine a little either way from TDC on the front pulley, try blowing into the no.1 cylinder wih a length of heater hose to the plug hole. Air going in easily means valves are open, turn engine 1 whole turn then try again. Once you have resistance to air blowing in, set the rotor button to the lead for no.1 cylinder. The dissy can go in as many positions as there are teeth on the drive gear, and then you need to line up the oil pump drive as well on vee belt models.

So that (blade) in the engine which slots into the dizzy shaft is the oil pump drive? Ive tried the hose trick last time,,,will try again. Also, would 10 year old fuel be a problem?