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Thread: 300tdi Rear Main Seal Question

  1. #1
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    300tdi Rear Main Seal Question

    im reading through my haynes manual and it says "no information at the time of writing" ive searched on here and it points to but doesnt Confirm what im wanting to know..which is

    Does the Automatic Tranny need to be dropped to replace the rear main seal on my 300tdi???

    Obviously this will mean tilting the engine and disconnecting every hose known to man just to replace a $50 seal. will 2 engine cranes be needed in that case? one to tilt the engine and one to "catch" the tranny? This is what its pointing to if replacing the rubber t pieces through the sump doesnt stop the flow!!!!

    Sorry if im all over the place with what i wanna know. i bought this car to "practice" on

  2. #2
    redrovertdi Guest
    I find it easier to lift the engine with a engine crane or hoist rather than drop the box, buts thats just me working at home.
    But something major has to be moved to do the rear main which involves removing the torque converter and flex plate.
    I would strongly reccomend fitting a "dowty" rear main seal if you can find one or a"turners 2.8" seal as i and others i know have had nothing but trouble from the cheapies[i got 3 weeks out of one once]

  3. #3
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    Damnnn. I mean excellent. Thanks land rover! Could you please elaborate on what a dowty is? Brand name of the seal?

  4. #4
    Disckombi Guest
    Yes - you definitely have to drop the G/B. Unless you have a garage style hoist and the gear to drop the box from on high you have two choices - either a game with a pair of trolley jacks balancing the box and then moving it out of the way - or, if you want to use an engine crane (still need a trolley jack to balance the front), you've got to remove all the centre console, the metal bits of which are all pop-riveted down to make it a pain - but it does make moving it around when refitting relatively easy.

    Meanwhile with the engine, what you need to do is actually raise the front as far as you can (head against firewall) and support it - this drops of the the back of the engine far enough so that you can access the top bolts holding the box on. To do this I used a tall jack onto a block of wood under the crankshaft pulley - the plus side is that you don't need to remove radiator hoses and break the cooling system.

    Have fun - I've just had my G/B in and out twice over the last few weeks - now I'm getting pretty good at it

    Ian

  5. #5
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    Do the steering rods need to be disconnected while supporting the engine with the trolley Jack or is there enough room? Gee this sounds like a whole weekender

  6. #6
    redrovertdi Guest
    Dowty was original equipment rear main seal manufacturer but no longer available unless somebody has old stock, other option is the rear main seal from turners engineering[they used to sell the dowty ones], dont get caught out with a generic unbranded rear main seal or you will be doing this job again very soon.
    As stated in my above post i personally find it easier to remove the engine than the gear box[on my own at home]

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I agree with redrover, much easier to just pull the engine forward than drop the tc and auto.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  8. #8
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    so turners would be better than a land rover one to avoid doing it again soon? does the fan need to be removed at the front to give the needed clearance or will straight up do it?

  9. #9
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    this is the bad boi i need

    Turner Engineering LUF100430 Rear Oil Seal

  10. #10
    redrovertdi Guest
    Thats the one, but do not use a gasket behind it or it will leak[Turners advice], i and two others i know use ultra blue with success

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