Thread: Thoughts and repair advice - Possible Clutch Drag

John, have had this problem with my '98 Disco Tdi300, tried all the usual hydraulic solutions to the problem but no such luck. The clutch fork will have either failed at the pivot (fulcrum) ball, or as in my case one leg of the clutch fork had snapped off giving the remaining leg all the push, (of which the stroke is now halved) onto the clutch release thrust bearing.
When removed the old fork as well as being broken at the thrust bearing end had just started to break through at the ball/pivot point, this I'm told is a very common failure, thus modified forks are available.
Although it will not cost a fortune to fix, (new uprated fork was about $65), if you are handy and a fit amature mechanic on the spanners, I'm afraid it can only be cured by taking out the gearbox completely to get into the bell housing area.
On mine many of the bolts/studs that held the bellhousing onto the back of the engine had also broken off or were loose, not sure what that was about but have read of similar occurrences on this forum before.
While my gearbox was out I decided to fit a new pressure plate and clutch (driven) plate, even though the originals (at 170,000 Klm) were still looking ok, just to save the drama of going through the whole gearbox removal again in the short term.
You only drive this one about the paddocks, I drove mine from North Brisbane all the way back to Cairns in the same condition, that's a life changing experience!
Hope this helps, regards.

Originally Posted by gazby

John, have had this problem with my '98 Disco Tdi300, tried all the usual hydraulic solutions to the problem but no such luck. The clutch fork will have either failed at the pivot (fulcrum) ball, or as in my case one leg of the clutch fork had snapped off giving the remaining leg all the push, (of which the stroke is now halved) onto the clutch release thrust bearing.
When removed the old fork as well as being broken at the thrust bearing end had just started to break through at the ball/pivot point, this I'm told is a very common failure, thus modified forks are available.
Although it will not cost a fortune to fix, (new uprated fork was about $65), if you are handy and a fit amature mechanic on the spanners, I'm afraid it can only be cured by taking out the gearbox completely to get into the bell housing area.
On mine many of the bolts/studs that held the bellhousing onto the back of the engine had also broken off or were loose, not sure what that was about but have read of similar occurrences on this forum before.
While my gearbox was out I decided to fit a new pressure plate and clutch (driven) plate, even though the originals (at 170,000 Klm) were still looking ok, just to save the drama of going through the whole gearbox removal again in the short term.
You only drive this one about the paddocks, I drove mine from North Brisbane all the way back to Cairns in the same condition, that's a life changing experience!
Hope this helps, regards.

G'day Gazby,
Thanks for your good feedback. Your informative reply confirmed that mechanical surgery will indeed be the order of the day. Next question, to access the Clutch assembly, what is the recommended repair option; Engine out or gearbox/TC out. Keeping in mind I have an engine gantry and floor jacks but I do not have the special adapter plates necessary to lower and remove the transmission assemblies.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
John W.

Pull the donk is the easiest way to go un less you need to do anything to the gear box or transfer