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Thread: More over heating

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Booney and Felmo both spot on.

    It looked good without a thermostat and took a little longer than usual to warm up....five minutes.

    I did every head gasket check known to mankind and a few extra known to woman kind....it just did not show as head gasket.

    I had a think about what Booney said and Flemo observation on the thermostat. I bit the bullet and got an aluminium radiator from coolantman off e-bay . Cost $269 bucks delivered to my front door. Did a buy it now at 8am and it was at my place by noon in the Disco by four pm.

    Problem solved. Immediately it takes around fifteen to twenty minutes for the Disco to warm up ( still no thermostat) on a warm day . I cannot get the temp higher than the lower set of little wavy lines on the temp gauge. My thermocouple tells me that's 84 degrees C . I know if I put the thermocouple back in it will get up to the 88 degrees specified in the manual.

    I will not re-install a thermocouple until I can find one that operates in other than a complete plug fashion ( I want a butterfly or rotating vane ) I also want a jiggler and some kind of failure bypass . ( a 3/16 hole for instance. )

    Only slight hitch with the new radiator is the filling bung leaks on account of the supplied seal being not that good. ( the bung out of my dud radiator fits fine and doesn't leak .

    I will persist in running the coolant as purified de-ionized water and drilling the filling bung to take a sacrificial zink anode.

    attached a picture of the temp gauge at 82 deg C

    I have measured and the lower mark in the arc measures 60 deg C half way will be 88 deg C the thermostat operating temp ( though mine was fitted with an 82 degree thermostat. ) so I am guessing but think that the top mark in the arc ...the one below the red line is 115 deg C or close to it and the red line is around 125 deg C near the boiling point of coolant at 15psi .
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #42
    DiscoMick Guest
    Good news. Mine sits just a little higher than yours, but never moves once warmed up.

    Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    Penrith
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gina View Post
    got an aluminium radiator from coolantman off e-bay . Cost $269 bucks delivered to my front door.
    Hi Gina,

    Would you have a link to this radiator on ebay?

    Thanks
    Kevin

  4. #44
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  5. #45
    Boony73 Guest
    Good result Gina I wonder how many people looked for $260 radiators on Ebay

  6. #46
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boony73 View Post
    Good result Gina I wonder how many people looked for $260 radiators on Ebay
    I did ......

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Zinc Anode

    Quote Originally Posted by Gina View Post
    Booney and Felmo both spot on.

    It looked good without a thermostat and took a little longer than usual to warm up....five minutes.

    I did every head gasket check known to mankind and a few extra known to woman kind....it just did not show as head gasket.

    I had a think about what Booney said and Flemo observation on the thermostat. I bit the bullet and got an aluminium radiator from coolantman off e-bay . Cost $269 bucks delivered to my front door. Did a buy it now at 8am and it was at my place by noon in the Disco by four pm.

    Problem solved. Immediately it takes around fifteen to twenty minutes for the Disco to warm up ( still no thermostat) on a warm day . I cannot get the temp higher than the lower set of little wavy lines on the temp gauge. My thermocouple tells me that's 84 degrees C . I know if I put the thermocouple back in it will get up to the 88 degrees specified in the manual.

    I will not re-install a thermocouple until I can find one that operates in other than a complete plug fashion ( I want a butterfly or rotating vane ) I also want a jiggler and some kind of failure bypass . ( a 3/16 hole for instance. )

    Only slight hitch with the new radiator is the filling bung leaks on account of the supplied seal being not that good. ( the bung out of my dud radiator fits fine and doesn't leak .

    I will persist in running the coolant as purified de-ionized water and drilling the filling bung to take a sacrificial zink anode.

    attached a picture of the temp gauge at 82 deg C

    I have measured and the lower mark in the arc measures 60 deg C half way will be 88 deg C the thermostat operating temp ( though mine was fitted with an 82 degree thermostat. ) so I am guessing but think that the top mark in the arc ...the one below the red line is 115 deg C or close to it and the red line is around 125 deg C near the boiling point of coolant at 15psi .

    Gina, thanks for your excellent posts and thorough investigations. My almost 20 year old 300TDi does not seam to have any cathodic protection. After 40 something years of Volvo engines in boats using anodes, I would like to add a few anodes to the old 300TDi and perhaps a cathodic protection system to the body. I live near the beach in Perth WA and do a lot of on beach driving so rust is a concern. Could you please post some pics of your anode device, and if anyone else has some advice on this it would be very appreciated...

    Many thanks Len
    Last edited by lenleggo; 16th November 2014 at 09:32 PM. Reason: adding

  8. #48
    medic455 Guest
    Hmmmmmm out of interest I followed the ebay link for the rad this afternoon. It would seem that they are now made of gold or somthing similar, because they now want $999.00 for them

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