As long as it hasnt pitted the bore it should hone out, i would loosen the rust with diesel or similar penetrant before trying to remove it.
Hi all,
Well finally got one of the heads off this engine I got that I plan on doing up, cylinder 7 looks like it has had some water in there that has sat a while and as a result there is some rust, I picked at it and it started to flake away, the head gasket was good and it was a tin one, the pistons have +0.20 punched on them which tells me its oversize, now in the opinions of ppl here looking at the picks does it look like it would hone out or maybe bore it a bit more or am I wasting my time and should I look for another
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1993 Discovery 1 3.5l
2" Lift, Cranked HD Trailing Arms
31" Maxxis Mudders
Tons of Radios, Tons of Spotties
As long as it hasnt pitted the bore it should hone out, i would loosen the rust with diesel or similar penetrant before trying to remove it.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Thanks for that, now never having had one of these engines apart before does it look like is has had a cylinder bore previously due to the piston having .020 stamped on it or is that std, plus they look rather clean, I would have expected them to be a bit blacker considering the age of the engine
+.020 is 20thou oversize.
The pistons look like they haven't been in a running engine. They look like they've just been cleaned.
Are all like this?
Scott
Yes they are all like this, also the head did come off rather easy no sticking just slid off when I removed the last bolt the gasket looks in very good order, but looking at the head itself the valves are filthy
Try some molasses on the bore, it will take the rust away and you will be able to see if the bore is pitted. If it is it might pay to fit a new liner, or bore out the rusty liner and put another oversize piston in, +0.030, all oversize pistons weigh the same as standard, but a 10thou. overbore will raise the compression on that cylinder a touch, which could be corrected with a light die grinder touch on the corresponding combustion chamber in the head.
If you have the cash get "Top Hat" liners fitted and bored to suit your 20thou. over pistons, Regards Frank.
+1 on the molasses. Works a treat and will only remove the rust allowing you to get a good look at the bore. Be warned that it will stink a bit though as it does the rust munching... Be wary of it running down the bores into the crankcase/sump though.
Yep, normal, everday, supermarket molasses
If you can get one (ideally borrow, as not cheap), a Flexhone is a great way to de-glaze the bore afterwards and plateau hone at the same time ready for new rings.
Good luck.
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
Thank for that, I was going to send it away for a hone and block test at the same time, been reading about diy honing and not confident enough to do it myself
Will the molasses do anything to the piston top if I move it to the bottom of the cylinder then temp seal it and then fill it with the mix.
Kevin, I would move the piston to BDC apply enough grease around top of piston to stop anything running down side of piston. Brush some molasses on the rust and keep an eye on it and when you think it has done it's job, wipe it off and check, you may have to do it a few times to see if the bore is pitted, good luck, Regards Frank.
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