New TDI disco :)

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Originally Posted by Robmacca

Thanks Steve.... thought that was the case....

I've come across a '99 model Tdi with ABS braking..... I'm assuming this must be the last models b4 going to the TD5's with a bit of a hybrid bits in it.... Is the ABS in the TDi's common and if not, would it be an issue? I'm assuming if the ABS fails due to faulty sensors, etc, that it just reverts back to a NORMAL type of braking system??

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IME the ABS on a D1 is about as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike - personally I'd avoid it if possible.
Some ABS faults can give you almost zero braking - not just normal braking. I've nearly run up the back of a couple of vehicles and there have been posts on here of others having the same issue.

I'm sure there are lots of people out there that have no dramas - just giving you my experience.

Steve

Also be aware that there have been numerous reports of big end bearing issues on the very late tdi's (~98 build).
Not a show stopper and a simple and cheap job to replace the bearings if they haven't been let go too long and damaged the crank.
I found the ones on my '99 130 300tdi at ~300K km's needed replacing.

Steve

ABS is rare on TDI's luckily most dont have it.

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Originally Posted by Robmacca

...

I've come across a '99 model Tdi with ABS braking..... I'm assuming this must be the last models b4 going to the TD5's with a bit of a hybrid bits in it.... Is the ABS in the TDi's common and if not, would it be an issue? I'm assuming if the ABS fails due to faulty sensors, etc, that it just reverts back to a NORMAL type of braking system??

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I have a '97 300Tdi Manual disco with ABS. The PO (or likely PPO) removed the ABS bulb from the dash (to hide the fact that ABS was not working).

The brakes work as well as any non-abs vehicle.

After talking with LR mechanic, he advised me that the asking price is probably a bit high for the things that are wrong with it......the search continues.....

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Originally Posted by steveG

Also be aware that there have been numerous reports of big end bearing issues on the very late tdi's (~98 build).
Not a show stopper and a simple and cheap job to replace the bearings if they haven't been let go too long and damaged the crank.
I found the ones on my '99 130 300tdi at ~300K km's needed replacing.

Steve

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I was told by a ex. L-R employee that L-R stopped making D1's after '97 so that they could make the TD5 D2 models.
All registered new D1's after that date are from surplus that they had parked up.
Real way to check when it was made, is to look @ the Seat Belt tags. They all have a manufacturing date printed on the tags.
Bruce G.

Is there any Tell Tail signs of them needing replacing ???


Rob

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Originally Posted by steveG

Also be aware that there have been numerous reports of big end bearing issues on the very late tdi's (~98 build).
Not a show stopper and a simple and cheap job to replace the bearings if they haven't been let go too long and damaged the crank.
I found the ones on my '99 130 300tdi at ~300K km's needed replacing.

Steve

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robmacca

Is there any Tell Tail signs of them needing replacing ???


Rob

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There will be a knock from the bottom end that is constant and sound increases with rpm, i have 325k on my TDI and i havent noticed any knocking but it is on the to do list (which seems to grow ).

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

There will be a knock from the bottom end that is constant and sound increases with rpm, i have 325k on my TDI and i havent noticed any knocking but it is on the to do list (which seems to grow ).

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I reckon if its knocking its been let go too long. On mine, the shells were starting to delaminate, but hadn't gone full width. It came to me with timing belt issues so I didn't get a chance to run it before I replaced the bearings, but I'd doubt if they were at the knocking stage.

IMO, if its around a '98 build with more than about 250K just pull the sump and replace them. If you really want to be tight then just check them and put it back together if OK. For the low cost of bearings I'd just replace as the main work is getting in there in the first place.
Make sure you check the top shell as that's the one that gets all the load.
If you let it go until the bearings are completely stuffed, then it can change from $50 and a couple of hours work, to a crank grind job.

Steve

Is this a relative easy job or should u go with a LR Mechanic & if with the mechanic, what sort of $$ would u be looking at?

rob

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Originally Posted by steveG

I reckon if its knocking its been let go too long. On mine, the shells were starting to delaminate, but hadn't gone full width. It came to me with timing belt issues so I didn't get a chance to run it before I replaced the bearings, but I'd doubt if they were at the knocking stage.

IMO, if its around a '98 build with more than about 250K just pull the sump and replace them. If you really want to be tight then just check them and put it back together if OK. For the low cost of bearings I'd just replace as the main work is getting in there in the first place.
Make sure you check the top shell as that's the one that gets all the load.
If you let it go until the bearings are completely stuffed, then it can change from $50 and a couple of hours work, to a crank grind job.

Steve

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