Thread: "P" gasket

i use permatex ultra blue, about 6 months ago i relaced the metal p gasket with a cardboard/soft one, the metal one was leaking with in a couple of weeks install, just my experience...

The metal ones leak as the front housing warps.

Machine the housing flat and no more leaks.

I replaced mine last week and so far so good. I used Permatex #2 and put a light coating on the tin gasket. From my reading of other posts I got the impression that if you use a sealant then a non-hardening sealant was a better option, so see how it lasts. I replaced the water pump at the same time and used 3 new long bolts. I then gradually and slowly tightened the bolts to the required torque setting alternating diagonally between the 3 bolts and the other 5 water pump bolts to ensure an even pressure at all stages.

When I took my old P gasket off I noticed one of the long bolts wasn't as tight as the others and this is the side it was leaking from. I also noticed that that part of the raised side of the old p gasket didn't look like it was compressed as the other sides were. So I assumed that the mechanic that did it at the time rushed through the job. I guess I was lucky it lasted 20 months since it was last done and didn't fail sooner.

Mike

Originally Posted by mike123

I also noticed that that part of the raised side of the old p gasket didn't look like it was compressed as the other sides were. So I assumed that the mechanic that did it at the time rushed through the job. I guess I was lucky it lasted 20 months since it was last done and didn't fail sooner.

Mike

Which side was compressed?

Mine was like that, but I'm pretty sure it was just because the tension on the belt naturally pulls the pump to one side. I know it wasn't caused by uneven tightening of the bolts.

I knew I should have taken a photo of the old p gasket as it looked obvious on the old gasket but hopefully I can describe it.

With the p gasket lying on its side as if you are about to locate it on the engine block it was the front right hand bottom corner of the gasket that hadn't compressed as much as the other areas. The raised side being at the front of the gasket. Now imagine a diagonal line from above that bolt hole dissecting the gasket between the bottom two bolt holes of the gasket. The raised part of the p gasket was compressed above that imaginary diagonal line but below the line if looked like the gasket hadn't been compressed. It was this bottom right bolt that wasn't as tight as the other 2 long bolts.

I saw on one of the forums that the way that you tell if the gasket has been compressed is by the raised surface being shiny where it has been compressed. So I only went by that a didn't get the micrometer out.

Interesting about the belt tension on the pump. I would have thought that if all the bolts were tight then there should be an even pressure. You've got me thinking now.

Mike

As I said, the alloy housing warps, it's a known problem to most all specialist workshops.

Agreed they warp, but also once the coolant finds a way out, it kind of erodes a channel which is deeper than the surrounding material that any gasket will not fill, this cannot be fixed without machining. This happened to mine, took it down to the machine shop (this one specialised in head work etc, but were happy to help with machinining just a few thou off the inside face of the housing), not enough to affect belt alignment. So, after about 4 P gaskets and as much work and swearing, its now been good for a decent time. As added insurance, I used Sika 11fc for the gasket sealant, which is a moisture cure polyurethane - I know it will be a bastard to get off if it needs replacing, but I was getting a bit sick of it leaking every few thousand ks. Even after a (careful) water pump replacement its been OK.

HEy there Spel, Mike and Rick

I am about 9/10ths of the way through replacing my water pump and P Gasket (the pump pulley shaft actually sheered off!!) I cannot get the P/S pulley out of the way to access the last bolt.
The manual says that a 9mm allen key can be used to hold the pulley still to undo the tension against. I don't see any such allen bolt.
I can't really get in there with a screwdriver to provide enough leverage to undo the bolts
Any hints?
Cheers
Jason