1997 300tdi Auto Massive Fuel Guzzler

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Originally Posted by workingonit

Dougal, correct me if I've misunderstood you on other threads, but I think you have said no wastgate, or wired up waste gate or faulty wastegate can lead to excess boost going into pistons - reducing power? A stuck open wastegate would also lose power? Would that potentially increase fuel consumption somehow, or affect injector advancement?

Lane, you said the actuator moved 'just' - as in only just moved or as in you were only just able to get something on to it to move it ie awkward access?

How freely should the actuator move (I assume this is really how freely will the wastegate move or open, I understand with a spring attached to close it) - is there a torque figure ie attach a fishing scale and pull?

Going from bad to good for a few minutes then back to bad could be a momentary change in the blockage or it could be a faulty wastegate?

In a series 3 petrol, I once had a sand grain size piece of rubber fuel line in the float chamber. Accelerate for some time would suck the rubber into the float needle hole causing reduced fuel flow and a loss of power. Stop for a while and the rubber would drop to the bottom of the float chamber and you could motor normally for a while. Hope its not something obscure like this.

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Yes a stuck open wastegate will kill power, boost and make fuel economy take a hit. But doesn't the OP have a boost gauge?

A stuck closed wastegate might not be noticed in normal driving. But at higher rpm it'll choke the engine off.

Re wastegate, awkward access, yes! I did get it to move in and out to what I think was fully open and shut. It was quite firm though. Redrovertdi, sounds just like mine. I have a spare turbo here so might fit that, looking at my vanes the other day some are a slightly dusted but not so badly that it wouldn't work. It does leak some oil down the intake so might as well change it. Give me a chance to fit the boost line too. Oh, that's when I have finished my swivels. I have severe death wobble and I could move the wheels about 8mm top and bottom! Me in my naivety assumed it was wheel bearings and replaced 'em only to find it still wobbles almost as much. A good thing I did anyway as they had some weird looking grease/oil in each one.:(

Regards,
Lane

Maybe the cv joint molybdenum grease was getting into the bearings, but not a big issue I would imagine.

Fingers crossed its your wastegate.

Yep I hope so. It probably was swivel oil/grease but it was different each side. One has a thick rust coloured grease, the other a watery black thickish oil!:( Looks like a swivel oil change is on the table. And a good clean inside the rusty one.:mad:

Regards,
Lane

My understanding.

Original set up - diff (diff oil), swivel housing (diff oil), bearings (bearing grease) - swivel oil leaks on your driveway.

Amended set up - diff (diff oil), swivel housing (moly grease), bearings (bearing grease) - theoretically no leak on driveway.

Read somewhere the pressure for change came from US market, and not necessarily an improvement according to some who go back to oil in swivel.
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Originally Posted by workingonit

My understanding.

Original set up - diff (diff oil), swivel housing (diff oil), bearings (bearing grease) - swivel oil leaks on your driveway.

Amended set up - diff (diff oil), swivel housing (moly grease), bearings (bearing grease) - theoretically no leak on driveway.

Read somewhere the pressure for change came from US market, and not necessarily an improvement according to some who go back to oil in swivel.
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It was a great improvement for the sale of hub seals rubber dust caps drive flanges and wheel bearings

Quote:

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Originally Posted by workingonit

My understanding.

Original set up - diff (diff oil), swivel housing (diff oil), bearings (bearing grease) - swivel oil leaks on your driveway.

Amended set up - diff (diff oil), swivel housing (moly grease), bearings (bearing grease) - theoretically no leak on driveway.

Read somewhere the pressure for change came from US market, and not necessarily an improvement according to some who go back to oil in swivel.
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The only time I have had to replace cv's on a Land/Range Rover, is when they run out of oil! Nissan and Toyota have problems with cv's due to the grease being thrown out of the cv, to coat the inside of the swivel housing, so they basically run dry. When Land Rover started putting grease in the swivels, the same happened.
There is no oil leak if you replace the seals when they wear! After every 4wd trip, wipe the gunk from your swivel seals, DO NOT PRESSURE WASH, as this will force grit past the seal.
Or even better fit leather gaiters!

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Originally Posted by landrover dave

The only time I have had to replace cv's on a Land/Range Rover, is when they run out of oil! Nissan and Toyota have problems with cv's due to the grease being thrown out of the cv, to coat the inside of the swivel housing, so they basically run dry. When Land Rover started putting grease in the swivels, the same happened.
There is no oil leak if you replace the seals when they wear! After every 4wd trip, wipe the gunk from your swivel seals, DO NOT PRESSURE WASH, as this will force grit past the seal.
Or even better fit leather gaiters!

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The only swivel seal leaks I've had were cured by removing and cleaning the seals. Dust gets packed in between the seal lips and builds up until it stops the seals from contacting.

Of course worn/loost swivel pins or a damaged ball surface will make it impossible to seal.