Some pics of the part in looking for info on.
Thanx
blandrover until i got to it
I have a Disco 1 3.9l on lpg, the Air flow meter has an extra bit attached inline with it between the meter and the lpg input. it has Aust made and P/N VBF07 on it.. it seem to reduce the diameter of the pipe and has a rubber bit in it.
Unsure what its there for, or if i need it.. can anyone shed some light on this..
Some pics of the part in looking for info on.
Thanx
blandrover until i got to it
I think it is in case of backfire it absorbs some of the explosion saving your MAF , mine has the high tech double stubbie coolor system .
Regards , Brent
LPG anti backfire flap, made by AMR Manufacturing, minus its plastic flap. I stopped fitting these to D1's as the flaps break off after a couple of backfires and the remnant lodges in the throttle body. You're better off without it but normally I suggest LPG owners fit a metal early model air filter housing instead of the plastic box type. Then no significant damage occurs due to a backfire.
So in safe to run without it. When you say "damage" are you refering to the air box itself being damaged or other components.
Also would removing this effect performance/economy.
blandrover until i got to it
"damage"
All components connected to the air intake. The MAF will survive a backfire or ten but will lose its mesh insert in the air box end, if it isn't gone already. Plastic air boxes break, metal ones don't. Rubber hoses sometimes split or fall off, check them all after each back fire.
You may notice a few % change either way but I doubt if you'll suddenly feel a supercharger under your boot. There are far bigger issues to overcome to get an optimum balance of power and economy from a simple gas system and you won't get them fixed by an internet diagnosis. Visit an expert LPG tuner in your general neighborhood for further advice. I don't know of any down your way.
Just thought with opening up the flow of air with that out it might effect the economy in a bad way.
Thank you for the help its appreciated.
blandrover until i got to it
While I have you reading this direction. I have been toying with engine sway ideas. Looked at holden v6, not much more poke for the money. Now im thinking maybe a ford falcon 4.0l. Straigh 6. Im the bf they have good power numbers in the mid to high 2000rpm range.
Have you heard of anyone look In this direction before.
blandrover until i got to it
1. The reason you use more fuel when you have more power available, is well, you are thrashing it harder. Back off a little, get a DECENT tune up and you may use a bit less fuel. It's a low compression lump of non-aerodynamic brick outhouse after all.
2. ANY engine conversion is much, much more costly than fixing and driving what you've got. The purchase cost of the replacement engine is the smallest part, the conversion parts, engineering and labour charges will swallow years of high fuel bills. The ONLY conversion capable of saving worthwhile amounts of fuel costs is a 300TDi turbo diesel out of a late D1. Even that will cost you thousands if you include all the incidental costs. Buying the vehicle with the economical engine already fitted is the easiest and cheapest way.
I recently fitted ACT's smooth bore reducing elbow that goes between the MAF and throttle housing. Junked the air filter box, made up a short pipe to go on the front of the MAF (from 75mm plastic drain pipe) and then clamped a 3A Racing cone filter to it (these outperformed the equivalent K&N type for flow and filtering in a recent muscle car test, are a third the price and you don't have problems associated with re-oiling when it trashes the AFM).
The smooth bore, which was designed for TVRs that also use the hotwire set up, are claimed to pick up 2 -4 hp and a few more ftlbs.
TI001 Griffith/ Chimaera Plenum to AFM hose | ACT Performance Products - your source for after market TVR upgrades, components and performance accessories.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks