Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Newbie test drove a D1 V8 seeking some feedback (longish)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    18
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Newbie test drove a D1 V8 seeking some feedback (longish)

    Hi All

    I've been looking at various Land Rovers online for a while now and finally settled on a D1 of some sort mainly due to the low initial entry price, the vehicle is to be a weekend only thing with the aim of getting some offroading practice/experience before stepping up to some bigger adventures. To that end I've been reading a ton of forum posts about what to look for pre-purchase and compiled my own inspection list culled from many forum posts. I have attached this as a plain text file.

    I'm asking for some feedback on some issues I noticed during the test/inspection especially as the vehicle has no roadworthy and I want to avoid any big expenditures such as new engine/transmission or roadworthy fails not easily solved.

    One of the rear passenger doors did not unlock with the central locking, I wasn't able to try unlocking it from the inside due to time but what fails usually wiring or a servo/actuator? I'm pretty sure this is a roadworthy fail.

    Auto Transmission - Big clunk when shifting in to reverse and shifting manually between 2 and 3 . I had a quick look at the A frame ball joint and it looked in good condition (I could see a green band on it that looked clean/almost new) reading up it seems the common answer is they all do that.

    Small match head sized rust bubbles under the alpine windows which I assumes means worse to come around the window frames.

    Large oil accumulation in the valley at the front of the engine under the distributor. The oil looked nice and clean though . Is this usually from the rocker covers or could it be something more serious like the distributor?

    Brakes. Car pulls up straight with no noise but lacked authority if that's the right term. Not sure what to expect from a D1 to be honest although I'm used to European cars that have the soft rotors and pads designed to give you that confident initial bite when you touch the brakes. Vehicle hasn't been used a lot so perhaps it needs a few hard stops to get the brakes back.

    Rear Donut. I noticed one small cut in the rubber about 5mm long and a few mm deep. Is this a sign it needs immediate replacement?

    Dash Pad curling. Not sure if this qualifies as a roadworthy fail. I read there used to be a fix kit available but all those posts are old. Vic roads says padding must not be damaged so its effectiveness is substantially reduced.

    Other than the above the vehicle appeared rust free in the floors, the suspension bushes looked good and the shocks were free of leaks and damage. The engine pulled well with no visible smoke and the temp guage sat on the middle (is that just a placebo?) apart from one occasion when it dropped to zero then swung back to life again. No noise from the steering at full lock apart from a creak from the steering column inside. Sounded like plastic on plastic. A/C seemed to work and be cold.

    Also one other thing I noticed was a moment of hunting at idle for a few seconds when pulling up to a stop before it settled down to a nice smooth idle.

    Thanks for looking and I appreciate any feedback no matter how small.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    All above pretty par for the course with a D1 or RRC.
    1 The oil in the valley is usually from a leaking end seal on the valley gasket or may be the Oring on the dizzy shaft. you do not give Ks covered or year, but it could mean a lot of crankcase pressure. Did you take off the oil cap when running to see if it sucked or blew? If it blew then there is engine wear. Nearly all V8s when they get to 200KK will need a new cam and lifters.

    2 The clunk is pretty standard din an old D1. You have to consider that the LT230 transfer is gear driven whereas most newer designs are chain driven. The LT230 therefore has the potential to clunk more, however excessive clunks could mean wear in the gears /shafts. Was the transfer covered in oil?( silly question-of course it was) . How big a pool? more than say 30MM is probably bad.
    3 You have really omitted some of the most expensive problems. Did the rear main seal of the engine leak? This costs lots as it is engine or transmission out. Did the auto shift from 1st to 2nd quickly when cold or hang on to first for a long time. This is the deal breaker as it will cost $4000-5000.
    The other stuff like rusting skylights and non operational door locks are little DIY jobs
    The brakes on early D1 s are quite unresponsive particularly with cheap pads which are often harder than genuine. With genuine pads they stop OK. You have not said whether it has ABS or not. This is for pre ABS. Again, new pads and discs are a bit of money but not ruinous.
    Regards Philip A
    Last edited by PhilipA; 21st August 2014 at 10:33 AM. Reason: spelling

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    18
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    All above pretty par for the course with a D1 or RRC.
    1 The oil in the valley is usually from a leaking end seal on the valley gasket or may be the Oring on the dizzy shaft. you do not give Ks covered or year, but it could mean a lot of crankcase pressure. Did you take off the oil cap when running to see if it sucked or blew? If it blew then there is engine wear. Nearly all V8s when they get to 200KK will need a new cam and lifters. Built 93 Delivered 94 and Nearly 300K, I didn't get time to do that test.

    2 The clunk is pretty standard din an old D1. You have to consider that the LT230 transfer is gear driven whereas most newer designs are chain driven. The LT230 therefore has the potential to clunk more, however excessive clunks could mean wear in the gears /shafts. Was the transfer covered in oil?( silly question-of course it was) . How big a pool? more than say 30MM is probably bad. That's not something I looked closely at where does the oil pool?
    3 You have really omitted some of the most expensive problems. Did the rear main seal of the engine leak? This costs lots as it is engine or transmission out. Owner mentioned his mechanic said a seal that needed the engine out needed doing so I'm assuming RMS, Engine had Welch plugs done recently but unfortunately not that seal. Did the auto shift from 1st to 2nd quickly when cold or hang on to first for a long time. This is the deal breaker as it will cost $4000-5000. Auto shifted ok from cold I thought.

    The other stuff like rusting skylights and non operational door locks are little DIY jobs.

    The brakes on early D1 s are quite unresponsive particularly with cheap pads which are often harder than genuine. With genuine pads they stop OK. You have not said whether it has ABS or not. It's built 93 delivered 94 so non ABS I assume? This is for pre ABS. Again, new pads and discs are a bit of money but not ruinous.
    Regards Philip A

    Thanks for the comments and the Auto box condition does concern me the most. I didn't do all of the tests you mentioned as I had sort of made my mind up at that stage it wasn't the one for me. I definitely need to get out and look at a few more and learn the signs. It takes a surprising amount of time to get through all the looking and road testing.

    P.S. I just recalled that I tried to shift into low range (dirt car park nearby) but couldn't get the selector to move forward or back just side to side, transmission in neutral and handbrake on. Also there was a gear whine from around the centre console area which I assume is also from the transfer box?
    Last edited by Faceplant; 21st August 2014 at 11:45 AM. Reason: More info

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    P.S. I just recalled that I tried to shift into low range (dirt car park nearby)
    but couldn't get the selector to move forward or back just side to side,
    transmission in neutral and handbrake on. Also there was a gear whine from
    around the centre console area which I assume is also from the transfer box?
    Again pretty normal for a D1 which hasn't been in low range for a long time. The linkages get sticky. Again a bit of oil over the arms and a few bruised knuckles will usually fix it.
    But you have to accept that a 93 car with 300KK on it is OLD. Depending on what has been done already the transmission would be very tired unless oil has been changed frequently, the engine again will be tired.

    All sorts of annoying little things may go wrong like starter motor, alternator, the heater core may spring a sudden leak and so on. For it to needs welsh plugs will probably mean it has not had the correct coolant % in it as if the coolant was changed regularly, this does not happen. There could be corrosion everywhere in the water passages.

    Cars this age are generally DIY as if you pay a mechanic you will go broke quickly.

    I gather this car is very cheap , but good lower mileage ones of these can be had for under 5K , in fact you can get a D2 which is much younger for about 5-7 K. ( for a cherry low K one) and the lower the mileage generally the more years you will get out of it before major costs.

    Mark my words it is easy to spend $2K very quickly on repairs. The rear main seal alone would be about $1000. If it has crankcase pressure and therefore needs new head gaskets this could be $2000-2500, and a auto $4000 or more.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,777
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    I would pass on a vehicle that age with those k's, there are plenty of later model less K D1's around.
    At 300K the engine is getting tired and will require major repairs like camshaft and timing gear.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    18
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    I would pass on a vehicle that age with those k's, there are plenty of later model less K D1's around.
    At 300K the engine is getting tired and will require major repairs like camshaft and timing gear.

    I'm tending to agree with you both especially in regards to the low initial cost leading to a greater outlay in the future. I think I could probably also shoot for something with some of the accessories I'm after as this one is stock. Thanks for the feedback all.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!