Thread: Where do I Start

Oh and a vibration under acceleration which I think is the tail shaft uni's

I'm assuming it's a TDi if you bought it from a P plater?

Auto or manual?

That's a good point! It is actually a 3.5 v8. That may have been why he was selling it. Then again I did pick it up from out in the sticks on the other side of armidale maybe they don't have that rule out there it's also an auto 270k on the clock

You dont say what engine but either one a service can be done yourself for moderate cost, tranny service is really just a fluid change for manual and fluid/filter for auto. Rad flush and hose replacement is a simple task, do thermostat as well.
Replacing bushes can be tricky as you need a press to remove most of them, easily done by taking the arms out one front and one rear out at a time to have replaced. Uni or rubber coupling ?, either not hard to replace.
Rear hub seal is a 30min job, fluid should not come out of the res unless the cap is fubared or too full.

You've got the most important point on there which is making sure the cooling is top notch.

Another thing to add to the list is the ignition module replacement. Do a search on here for Bee Utey's Bosch module replacement. Removes a very weak point from the system.

Take a look also at the inlet manifold/valley gasket and valley end seals. They may be loose and leaking. While you're there and the valley gasket is off, take a squizz at the cam. You're at the point where they are in need of a change.

Thanks,
The shaft is the uni type.
What are your thoughts on using the oil flush stuff that you can buy as part of the service?
I've heard mix opinions.
Any ideas on where to start looking for the intermittent no start? I'm not sure if it is just me but even when it does start it seems to need a fair bit of crank and some throttle before it fires. This May or may not be relevant to the wet weather starting

Originally Posted by sheerluck

You've got the most important point on there which is making sure the cooling is top notch.



Another thing to add to the list is the ignition module replacement. Do a search on here for Bee Utey's Bosch module replacement. Removes a very weak point from the system.



Take a look also at the inlet manifold/valley gasket and valley end seals. They may be loose and leaking. While you're there and the valley gasket is off, take a squizz at the cam. You're at the point where they are in need of a change.

Thanks Mate,
I will have a look at the Bosch module replacement and check out the condition of the valley area.
I can't figure out if I am excited to get stuck in or dreading the thought lol

A slight split in the hose off the fuel pump (in tank) caused my V8 D1 to be a bit slow to start.


The '93 V8 D1 I have now sat around for some time and the oil went rather sludgy. When I got it registered again, gave it 3 quick oil changes with cheap (Valvoline XLD) oil in about 1000km. Cleaned up ok then changed to Penrite HPR30.


If uni's are very bad, do that 1st. A dropped uni has the ability to do more than have you broken down on the side of the road.


Cooling system
Engine/tranny service
Bushes
Bad oil leaks


The Bosch ignition module mod is very worthwhile too....