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Thread: Plan ahead?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cooktown, North Queensland
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    Question Plan ahead?

    Started out to replace the water pump on our '98 300Tdi D1 today, all was going well with the disassembly until I got to the three long bolts at the bottom end of the pump that bolt through to the engine block at the "P" gasket coolant channel, two of these bolts were so corroded in that the heads and part of the shank twisted off leaving me with the housing that holds the pump and interfaces with the block via the "P" gasket firmly still attached via corrosion between what remains of the bolt shank and the bolt bore through the housing.
    I have applied as much civilised "influence" as I dare without trashing the housing, (which, remarkably is in really clean un-corroded condition everywhere else).
    Has anyone had this experience before, and how did you deal with it, I feel that it is probably one of those common problem areas, any ideas are welcome................please.
    If I can save the situation I think I will slightly counterbore the pump mounting face at those three holes with an end mill and make 3 new "collared studs" to replace those bolts, so that the pump will be held on those studs by nuts and changing the pump will not effect the integrity of the "P" gasket and cause a leak which is what I believe usually happens when the pump is disturbed usually, and as I intend to keep this D1 until I stop driving I may get to have to change a couple of more pumps before I "shuffle off this mortal coil". Gaz

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
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    Gaz
    your best bet is to yank the front case and then you will have some meat to play with
    bit of a hassle but you will find that most of the stickion will be between the bolts and alloy rear pump housing.

    Once you remove the housing the bolts will come free

    Oh and note to self:
    when doing P-gasket use new bolts and copious anti-sieze

    IMHO poor design incorporating water-pump and rear housing bolted junction but thems the brakes

    s
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cooktown, North Queensland
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    Smile

    Steve, that is the bit that is stuck on two of the broken bolts, will have a go at drilling them out today but as there is about 100 mm of bolt to get through I don't like my chances for keeping the water pump/p.s pump/alternator mount case in useable condition.
    Definitely a BIG design fault, but I guess you don't get to have to change the water pump too regular, this one has lasted 196,000 klm. Gaz

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cooktown, North Queensland
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    Thumbs up Off and out !

    Seems like not many ideas out there for removing that water pump/auxiliary bracket, but I now have it off and out without any damage, once I managed to get it over the two corroded bolts the two remaining thread shanks simply screwed out by hand. It took two days and a lot of making up special tools/pullers/ jacking screws etc, (ahhh retirement), but it is now out and ready to go back when the new "P" gasket arrives in the mail.
    I took the opportunity to replace the timing belt while we were in the area as I always have a spare on hand.
    I have done a lot of photos of how I went about getting the bracket off and things I made to do the job, when we are back to normal and I have time I will do a "step by step" on it for the Tech Tips, it may help someone in the future. Gaz.

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