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You are correct about the light. Maybe the switch is just on the borderline of being turned off. I'm just guessing now. Don't remember that part of assembly from top of my head. I have one lt230 taken apart in the workshop, no switch tough. If you need details I can take pictures tommorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
As stated above, freeing both front wheels is the best option for now.
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Thanks Blknight, ill do that tomorrow but what am I looking for?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
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the front propshaft to turn freely with the CDL disengaged and the Tcase in neutral and both front wheels off the ground.
if that works reengage the CDL and see what happens when you try to turn just one front wheel. the other wheel should turn in the other direction IF that doesnt work then its the diff gone. or you have a true track you never knew you had.
A blown CV wont bind up the front diff with both wheels off of the ground it might make one side hard to turn but not both so you may not get the backwards turning wheel thing.
Thanks, I know it does not have a true track as I have done this test partly before when I have had the wheels off, if you advise works and it spins free in neutral then when I put the TC back to high and each front wheel goes opposite way, then if iI drop one wheel with CDL off I should be able to turn the raised wheel which turns the front drives shaft indicating it's not locked in CDL, is this does not work then either TC is locked regardless of what light says or front different is stuffed... .?
i know the Rave says that the CDL light is connected inside the box and light comes on and goes off when CDL is actually on and not when just selected but is it possible that this could be wrong and it there an adjustment i can do
I wouldn't worry about the light too much at this stage.
Raise your front to free up both wheels, handbrake on, CDL disengaged, grab front prop shaft and try to turn it.
If it turns freely, CDL is disengaged.
If it doesn't, CDL is engaged (or stuck somehow) or your centre diff is cactus and siezed (maybe centre pin broken, sun/planet gears shattered etc.) which might be the case, especially if you say that your light goes off.
Which wheel turn forwards, backwards etc. is irrelevant at this point. Once you determined status of CDL and centre diff, then you can go on investigating your front diff, CVs etc.
Thanks Roamer, thats my next plan of attack, if it turns out that the TC is actually unlocked and it is the From diff that is cactus, would that be enough to make the Back Wheels skid when going around a corner on a hard surface even though the CDL is unloked.
Yes if centre diff is "stuck enough" so to speak. Stuck centre diff is equivalent of CDL being engaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
Just to clarify I mean the front diff if that is stuck will it it be equivalent to cdlQuote:
Originally Posted by ROAMER_AUS
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Not the front one. CENTRE diff, the one inside your transfer case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B