Sounds like a short in the front window circuit somewhere, sorry i cant offer more than that.
Evening All. My window saga continues. Now my front windows don't work and I'm looking for help. Brief history;
1. Back windows work intermittently then pack in altogether. Front windows fine right now.
2. I see thread and you tube video about soldering window ECU to repair rear window problem (ECU under glove box). Do repair as indicated. Doesn't work. Shortly afterwards front windows stop working. I check fuse. It's blown. I replace. Front windows work for a while then pack in. Now no windows work. Air con sees a lot of action.
3. I buy a used (tested) ECU from UK dealer on line. Fitted it. Back windows work. Front windows still don't work. All fuses (that I can find) are OK.
Tried swapping front/ rear connections between window control switches and the switches are fine. Find it hard to believe both front window motors would have blown simultaneously.
Any clues people?
Cheers
Bolton
Sounds like a short in the front window circuit somewhere, sorry i cant offer more than that.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
x2
First I'd check the connectors to the ECU to make sure that when you connected the ECU up that one of the terminal lugs wasn't pushed out a bit from the plug and so isn't making a good contact. I found that plug difficult to remove when I fixed my rear windows and so I'm thinking it may be damaged in some way.
Also, do you know if you're getting power to the windows? I'd assume that you may not be so then I'd work backwards from the window motor and follow the wiring (colour code/stripe). As both windows aren't working then it must be before where they separate. The blown fuse concerns me as that indicates a short. Has there been any other electrical work done around the same time? As you search the wiring look for any pinched wires.
Also, what happens when you put the old ECU back in? Does the old problem still exist. If not then there is something else happening.
Memory is a bit vague from 20 years but on either/both the widow winder and lock there was a motor, control chip and a timing capacitor of IIRC 10uF and 16V. Failure of the capacitor meant the unit didn't work and the local LR place had heaps of them at about the 2 year mark. We were using a similar size 10uF through hole unit in a test instrument but probably higher temp or voltage. This fixed the problem
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