Like this. You will have to bend them as they go in to avoid the sides of the Heater ducts. They may even end up almost straight by the time you get them in far enough.
For the last twenty years or so, I've just used a kitchen knife when I could not find the correct key...
Tom.
1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold
Like this. You will have to bend them as they go in to avoid the sides of the Heater ducts. They may even end up almost straight by the time you get them in far enough.
So the keys need to go in a long way to engage? I can only get them in about an inch or so and you can feel a spring or similar move out of the way, but they don't lock in. At least on the right side that is the case. On the left side I can see a screw that has backed out and is right in the middle of the way, about a quarter-inch or so behind the slot, making it nigh impossible to get anything past it. That could just be part of the problem... However I haven't seemed to be able to get any give on the right side either when pulling.
I am very open to suggestions at this point. Chainsawing included. Any other ways of getting it out? I'd prefer not to trash the head unit.
So much for a quick 'I'll just whip this out' ....
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
If the right side is going in ok, and you can feel it engaging, then gently twist the key as you pull on it. If it's not locking (as you said) then try pushing a little harder. Don't be shy about it.
If you can release the right hand side, then you can maybe get enough room on the left to enable you to get past the screw that you said is in the way.
The only other way of getting it out, is to remove the whole fascia.
Heater controls, clock etc all out.
Then you would have the unit still attached to the fascia as you remove it.
If you go down that path, there are two, i won't say hidden, but hard to see, screws behind the clock/cointray and ashtray.
Its the same amount of screws per side, so whatever you undid behind the clock and cointray, it will be identical on the other side.
The heater cable controls can and will be a ........... not nice.
I may have to go down that path and basically remove the entire fascia and work it out from there.
I've just made up a 'tool' a bit wider and fatter and had a go with that on the 'good' side and really given the whole thing some welly and reefed on it. I can't get anything to disengage anywhere and even give me a glimmer of hope. I think it's safe to say it isn't coming out by conventional means.
If I cut away the front side edges of the radio would that allow me better access? Without seeing the clipping mechanism i'm flying blind here. It means trashing the unit but I suppose I could always get another stockie from somewhere.
I've run out of time for the day and might be able to get to have another look in a couple of days. Thanks for all of your thoughts, help and suggestions so far. Sorry it has beaten us.... for now.
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
I believe there are two screws at the top of the facia (shorter ones) and two screws behind the radio facia. The two behind the radio facia you may be able to get to but the ones at the top are only accessible if you remove the radio.
I'm not sure bout the factory radio, but was that way with the DVD player which was in the car when I bought it. I installed a blu tooth radio and new console facia as the old one was cracked to bits. The guy who put my radio in didn't put the two top screws in and I would need to pull the whole radio out to do so. That's how i know.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ne-middle.html
An old thread of mine. If you scroll down a bit to the two pics you can see how it looks from behind. Note the tab near the top. This is where the two short screws go into. So would think radio needs to come out. Unless they are a bit loose and you can slide it forward as appears the screw holes are open.
Don't swear at me though if you get to that stage and they don't.
OK. Time for closure...
There was no way that radio was coming out with removal tools. Pulled the fascia today and the clips holding the radio to the carrier were all mangled, locking the radio in. Someone in the past had turned it into a total dog's breakfast, hence the problems and head scratching. Thanks to all that provided assistance.
So, anyway, the radio is out now
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
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