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Thread: Surging & coughing at very light throttle

  1. #1
    DAMINK Guest

    Surging & coughing at very light throttle

    Disco 1 1994 model V8 Duel fuel with injected gas.

    New Coil meh717
    New Module Bosh 024 (as per Bee Utey)
    New IAC
    New Plugs NGK BPR5ES
    Oldish Leads NGK 8mm (tested for resistance and appear fine)
    New Vac Advance Unit. (Purchased from Performance Ignition Services)
    Old dizzy cap. (appears good)
    New rotor button. Bosch GB864 <-- replaced to try fix this problem but no luck thus far.

    Problem i have now occurred when i purchased and installed the new vac unit.
    Car runs pretty good at anything over 1500 rpm all the way through rev range.
    Car idles ok. The problem is just off idle and upto about 1500 rpm.

    When i drive and back off lets say the car starts to backfire and revs become erratic.
    A good example is when on cruise and coming down a hill it will start to carry on big time.
    I have adjusted the timing from 6 degrees through to 20 odd degrees and the problem continues.
    I remove the vac advance and block the line and it runs good with no signs of this problem.

    I suspect i have been given the wrong vac advance unit.
    But i not sure.
    When i run the timing light with vac connected i get a heap of advancement when revving as expected.
    When i remove the vac unit i only get a small amount of advancement when revving.
    I assumed the counter weights would give more advancement than the vac advance would?
    Yet it appears the other way around.
    Anyway i have spoke to Performance Ignition Services and they have offered to replace the unit although they seem to think its the correct one.
    They even offered to have a look at it for me. (good blokes there)
    Unfortunately im a long way away from there so i cant get there until next week.
    Just thought i would ask you guys if you have any ideas.

    Cheers Andrew.

  2. #2
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    The short answer is that your vacuum advance is moving the tip of the rotor button past the contact inside the distributor cap. If you inspect the rotor button tip you'll find that there is a burn mark at the corner of the brass strip instead of the whole working edge. I suspect the main reason is the alignment of the star rotor on the distributor shaft is out, not sure if there's much you can do about that. A simple cure is to use a rotor button with a wider tip. I've faced your problem often enough and so I've replaced the OEM style one with an XF Falcon one, Bosch part number GB864. It's a bit tighter on the shaft so make sure that you burnish the shaft end with some wet n dry before fitting the XF rotor button. It looks completely different but works quite well.

    Another possibility is to use the arm off your old vacuum advance and use it to extend the arm on the new advance. A dob of weld to make it 5mm longer could fix all your problems.

  3. #3
    DAMINK Guest
    Thankyou Bee Utey.
    I ended up tying a knot in the vac advance hose and the damn car runs better than it ever has lol!!!!
    I will inspect the rotor tomorrow and do as you suggest.

    How weird. I had a few beers at a mates house and chatted about the problem.
    Got him to drive the car vac advance off and on so he could see the problem.
    Decide to go home and at that point i think... Hmmm it seems to get way to much advance so i will try retard it by restricting the hose.
    Not sure why but its running like a beast now lol.

  4. #4
    DAMINK Guest
    Replaced the rotor button with the Bosch GB864
    No difference to my problem at all.
    Actually almost feels a little worse now when i take off the advance.
    Problem or surging and coughing still happening.

  5. #5
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    Check your distributor cap for carbon tracking, it may be damaged from going too far with the problem before you changed the rotor button.

  6. #6
    DAMINK Guest
    I have only had the car about 9 months.
    When i first got it the vac advance did work and work fine.
    Some point recently it failed.
    Because i had another issue i did change the coil and ignition module to the above.

    I wonder if its infact the problem?
    Is that ignition module supposed to give a longer duration of spark?
    If so thats sort of what the problem here is right?
    Excuse my ignorance as electrical is not my strong area.
    Im considering actually changing back to the original ignition module to test if thats the problem.


    Sure i could change the cap and leads plus buy a new dizzy but my wallet is starting to dislike the disco.

    Im not even convinced its an ignition issue to be honest with you.
    I have a MAF issue i cant seem to work out and i also ponder if that is the problem.
    Damn cars!!
    Last edited by DAMINK; 6th September 2015 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Soooo many spelling mistakes. Likely still some there.

  7. #7
    DAMINK Guest
    Ok had a couple of days off thinking about this problem.
    Been doing my head in a little bit to be honest. Wasting money after money.
    Anyway.........

    I checked the star rotor in the dizzy. Turns out there IS some play there.
    Additionally and im a touch embarrassed to say this but the pickup to the star rotor was loose!!!
    Now in my defense i have never touched the pickup. Not that that is much of a defense.

    Can the star rotor be glued or lock tightened to stop the play?
    Would changing to the old ignition module hide the problem?
    Going to tune it again today now i found the pickup issue and see if that was the underlying cause.

  8. #8
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    Is the vacuum advance actually engaged with its pin on the advance plate? Hint: apply vacuum, ie your mouth, to the vac hose and observe the advance plate, does it move a small bit? With the plastic cover off it should be easy to see if the vac advance capsule's arm is engaging its pin.

    Is the star rotor actually loose on the shaft or is it just the movement of the advance mechanism? Hint: hold the shaft still while you wriggle the star rotor.

    If the star rotor is truly loose on the shaft then remove the circlip, washer and O ring and put a drop or two of super glue in the gap. Hold the star fully clockwise against its slop as you do so.

    Is the pickup actually loose or is it just clearance in the vacuum advance plate. Hint: check all visible screws for tightness.

    Have you looked for carbon tracking in the cap yet? Hint: a strong light and perhaps some reading glasses or a magnifying glass will help you look for fine trails between the contacts.

    Pics of a dissy fix are here.

    Careful observation beats a panic attack every time. Fix the problems you see before inventing new ones.

  9. #9
    DAMINK Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Is the vacuum advance actually engaged with its pin on the advance plate? Hint: apply vacuum, ie your mouth, to the vac hose and observe the advance plate, does it move a small bit? With the plastic cover off it should be easy to see if the vac advance capsule's arm is engaging its pin.
    Yes vacuum is connected properly. Tested with sucking and timing light.
    Visually inspected also and can see plate moving as expected.

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Is the star rotor actually loose on the shaft or is it just the movement of the advance mechanism? Hint: hold the shaft still while you wriggle the star rotor.
    Yes the star rotor is loose. I can move that independently to the shaft.
    Not a great deal of movement. A very small amount but it is visible.

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    If the star rotor is truly loose on the shaft then remove the circlip, washer and O ring and put a drop or two of super glue in the gap. Hold the star fully clockwise against its slop as you do so.
    Ok i will give that a go as it seems a simple fix.

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Is the pickup actually loose or is it just clearance in the vacuum advance plate. Hint: check all visible screws for tightness.
    One of the nuts that hold it down was finger tight when i looked at it so yes it was loose.

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Have you looked for carbon tracking in the cap yet? Hint: a strong light and perhaps some reading glasses or a magnifying glass will help you look for fine trails between the contacts.
    I have yes. I cant see any but it is possible i just dont see it.
    I have it outside and cant see any.
    I am noticing a little burning on the outer edges of the contacts that i had not noticed previously.

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Pics of a dissy fix are here.
    Thankyou bookmarked for reference.

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Careful observation beats a panic attack every time. Fix the problems you see before inventing new ones.
    I decided to stop looking at the car for a few days.
    Not sure that constitutes a panic attack.
    As for fixing the ones i see. Well thats what im trying to do mate.
    As for inventing new ones??????
    Its a disco!!!!! If im not mistaken the car makes em on its own.

    Thankyou for replying Bee Utey.

  10. #10
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    [FONT=""][COLOR=""][SIZE=""]I'm not sure this applies to your engines symptoms but, many years ago I was having ignition problems with a 186 Holden motor. The problem had me stumped until a friend pointed out a hair line crack in the distributor cap. In fact the crack was much thinner than a hair.You really had to strain to see it. Anyway as it was a Saturday evening and I didn't have a spare distributor cap so my mate painted over the crack with some finger nail polish. It worked a treat.[/SIZE][/COLOR][/FONT]

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