One more
Printable View
One more
sealant beads? is that on the gasket out of the box or you mean i have to put sealant on the gasket? i have an elring one. i thought you put them on dry? is there a sticky coating on them out of the packet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
excuse my ignorance
ok, first things first.
the head and the block are no where near clean enough to even think about assessing their condition yet. if you dont have brain surgeons asking to book time on the deck as an operating table, its not clean enough.
clean with a soft wire brush tooth brushes, and scouring pads only. you may use water and other gentle solvents but elbow grease is by far the best. you can use a wire flay on the block gently DOT NOT use anything but mandraulic tools on the head. you can use a dremel with a small wire wheel or flay to clean up the coolant galeries and to "blend" the edges of the same galleries.
I'll test your imagination.. imagine you were standing on the other side of the workshop and my apprentice and showed up with that head and that block and then asked me if it was ready to be checked. how long do you think it will be before you're able to hear without tinnitus again... The last time it happened the guys at fukishma got nervous. Ok so Im pulling your leg a little here. I know if you were in the same workshop youd never hear again without tinnitus.
if you have a look at your first pic you'll see a ring of red stuff around the galleries and the drilling for the valve followers, that stuff is the sealant, you'll see traces of it going around your replacement gasket. thats the stuff you're trying to protect its pressure sensitive adhesive and you dont want to scratch a bead of it especially not around the oil or coolant galleries.
ID like to be able to assure you that Im trying to be sarcastic about how clean the head and the deck need to be.. unfortunately Im not do not skimp shortcut deviate or otherwise pay anything less to utterly perfect attention to the cleanliness and the checking of the flatness of them..
I'm with Blknight.aus. For one thing you can't even tell how straight it is until it's clean enough to at least eat your dinner off. Besides, it's very therapeutic cleaning it (NOT!) Still, it could be worse - if you had a V8 you might have two to do.
Ok I appreciate all the advice here and could not do without it but c'mon!!! Even i knew the block is not ready for the gasket etc. i just thought with the corrosion around the galleries do I need to worry? I assumed the sealant beads was the red stuff. I will clean the block as specified and then get a straight edge on it. The head is a brand new one so not as much cleaning needed.
Got radiator out just now and old expansion tank. May need new radiator too. The bottom fins are like dust. Managed to get a few kg of locust skeletons too.
I have an air die grinder. Is this ok for block cleaning with a soft attachment?
Tomorrow water pump off and hopefully the cover that is over p gasket. With the corrosion i had im a bit scared about tackling the bolts. If they snap im up s creek.
Any hints on that? Thanks so much btw.
you can use the die grinder but you want a large soft wheel or brass flay, if you put any kind of sanding attachment or polishing attachment on it with any force you can easily dig out a 2 thou tolerance.
the reason for the alarm bells and whistles and the not even going to pretend to waste my time with anything that could be misinterpreted as subtle class warnings is because of what was in the photos and that you asked for our opinion on if it was salvagable. Some of the shortcuts Ive seen people try to take on the basis of "I didnt know, no one told me, why would I ask?" are only outweighed by some of the things Ive seen done by people who thought they could get away with it and not do the full job because they were lazy in a hurry.
Allow me to assure you my tried and true secret to laziness that has on many occasion led to me being called the flat lazy hammock filling mechanic. Because I did it right the first time, it hasnt come back as warranty work so now I have nothing else to do but flex out in my hammock with a beer in one hand, the radio on country and my ebook in the other.
Id rather have you ****ed off at me and have your engine rebuilt properly the first time than have you come back later and complain about how something didnt go right because of pick any reason you like. But I can assure you that among the valid reasons will not be that I left any room for any doubt about an important point or detail.
for the water pump bolts gently tap them with a small hammer before you start to undo them and if you can get some heat soak on the block from a 500w halogen light or similar for an hour or two to break the hold on the bolts. just replace them if you get them out in one piece, loctite 24+3/242 on the threads when you put them in and give them a very friendly coating in nickle, copper or silver antisieze before you install your new bolts, while everything is off run through the holes with a thread chaser.
heres the secret to the long bolts. Dont worry, if they break off because of corriosion at least 50% of the time they snap mid way and leave enough to get on with a pair of vice grips, if you snap some just undo the rest and slide the housing off then have at whats left and worry about that bridge yet. So far I havent had one thats invovled more than about chapter one in the book of tricks. Which was a case of vice grips, heat, lube and wiggle it.
if you have any pitting on the face where the p gasket lives get all the contaiminates out of the pitting by any means you can and then build it up again with devcon, ally solder, araldite, metal putty (get the stuff thats ally compatible, and rated for use with fluids under pressure) then sand it back, you want a smooth but textured surface at the end of your working thats flat to within a total variance of 5 thou.
what goops and sealants you use with the replacement gasket depend on which gasket you get. Me personally for the water pump gasket Im a very big fan of hylomar or loctite or permatex or aviation non hardening gasket sealant #3.
For the metal P gasket I like to use the blue gasket sealastic or stag, for the
paper gasket same as the waterpump gasket. Dont be scared about letting it setup for a full 24 hours before you put coolant in it, the longer you leave it the better its going to seal up, especially with the #3 goops.
While you've got the head off, think about doing the core plugs and welsh plugs.
Just to clear the air, i am not in any way or form f....d off at you. You have continuously provided me with invaluable information and for that i am extremely grateful. What i meant is just that a little faith in ne would have been nice :) i know i need to surgically clean the mating faces. I was just a bit worried about the galleries and corrosion and wondering whether you guys thought it was gone. The photos make it look worse than it is though.
I did not mean that last message to seem like i was peed more like a cmon guys have a little faith in me. Again, you have always been so helpful and if i lived in katherine i would have left offerings of cartons of beer at your doorstep by now.
Core plugs on block? Like one next to p gasket? Etc.
Not sure if i will be able to. I am changing the gasket on oil filter housing, vacuum pump (and taking rivets out), changing ps pipes, changing oil cooler pipes, all radiator hoses, oil thermostat, installing ems2 and boost gauge amongst all the other stuff. How involved are the core plugs? I have two weeks to finish everything but bear in mind i also work full time and have a pregnant wife to obey.
10 minutes each if they fight. but to put that in perspective....
working an 8 hour day with a now ex wife that was pregnant a complete tdi build up from short motor and install was an overnighter and back to work on time the next day.
but I'll be fair, that was the third time I had to do that engine in that car so it wasnt fighting and I do this for a living, well when I do my thing for a living anyway and Im an insomniac.
Im going to guess that with where you are now, if you budget 5 hours total working time with 4 of that being effective time on tools you're going to nail out everything you need to do in 10 days..
A lot of what you've listed just needs to be done in the right order to allow great access to what you want to do as you build it up...
Theres 6 all up in the block apparently? And one is at the back? I cant access this without taking engine out? Which i dont have the equipment for. Or am i wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Haha always the same with this car. Start of doing small thing and turns into a new car rebuild