New Cylinder Head

i have the permatex slow curing aviation stuff. metal p gasket. i was going to use the aviation stuff in all of them.

Got water pump off tonight, changed power steering hoses, oil cooler hoses loose. Managed to snap the top of the long bolts on the water pump. Heated the block up a bit as recommended, used lots of antiseize and light hammer taps but still broke. All the other bolts came off beautifully was a bit of a shame. But as suggested I'll cross that bridge once i get to it.

Tomorrow ill remove the bracket over the p gasket and do that.

Great Thread!
keep at it Val:clap2:

Here's a pic of the holding bracket in front of p gasket. I've already removed the PS pump to bottom right and alternator to above left where the header tank normally is.

Now the question is? The bracket ain't moving, all the bolts are out, but there is still the snapped long bolt for the water pump. I think it's corroded in the hole of the bracket. I'm heating it up as I write this. So, only the block has thread in it yea? The bracket is just a hole? So i can gently tap it off?

PS before anyone says I haven't removed the bolts, the pic was taken before i had

In answer to the question about the back of the block welsh plug..

yeah you can change it in situe, It'll be entertaining and good for you... 10 minutes each would be average, less than a minute each for the other 5, that one burns up the time... :)

Im assuming you got the nut in the corner where the tensioner mounts.

give it a whack with the rubber knock o meter it'll come off.

odds are you have some galvanic corrosion happening on the block to housing interface level and if someones been heavy with the goop or used #4 #5 or stag the p gasket will be holding it. Yes you'll have some sticking of the bolts you've snapped if theyve expanded with corrosion, and yes, the long bolts only thread into the block.

I got it. Its corroded inside the housing. Fought all the way. The bit of bolt left over came out the block easily.

The housing has seen better days though. But i looked up new one and it's anout $500. So thats a no go. Guess I'll have to tlc this one. I'm not sure if just casting though or if it has hairline cracks all through it.

Photos to come...

Who'd you ring for that price?

did you try MR automotive? if you order from them tomorrow you should have it by monday

looked at every supplier available. ranged from $484 to $899. ended up finding good second hand one from MR. Radiator got re-cored as well as was cactus and did not want one of the cheaper copper core/plastic or alloy ones, as recommended from a local LR shop.

as promised, here are pics of the housing and hairline cracks. not sure if these are just surface coating cracks or right through. dont want to risk it though after all the work and $ ive put in.

the other pic is the block with the cover removed and the p gasket visible just for anyone who wants to see what it looks like. the oil you see at the bottom of the block is from leaking old PS hoses which i have replaced now and the block has been cleaned up.

when you say the back welsh plug is accessible and entertaining. any tips on this? to be honest i dont want to open another can of worms. none of them look too bad and not leaking. i am quickly running out of time and i know its a good time to do them and may not get an opportunity like this and I know you have the best intentions for my engine but i just dont think i can get to them. by removing the non leaking plugs now i am afraid that i could be inviting leaks by not having time to do them properly and cleaning them and sealing them. if they are a bit corroded then i wont have time to araldite the edges and let it cure etc. etc.

mate at the very minimum change that one behind the housing. the one in the same spot at the back of the block is changable with everything on but having the head off at the time does make doing it easier. Fair call to leave that one and all the ones down the side as they can all be done with the engine mostly assembled.

Personally with the amount of corrosion I've seen on your pics and how you've been describing things I'd have gone changing them all now.

Judging the corrosion by how bad the orifices are on the head and the block isnt always the best way to go due to the proximity of dissimilar metals. when you get 5 search up some of the other threads about welsh plugs on here.

Ok i will do the one behind the p gasket. Need to wait for my bracket to arrive anyway so will keep me busy.

I see what you mean about the one at the back. I can touch it with my fingers. To be honest though, beyond my expertise with the time I have left. Will end up in tears.

On another subject, anyone know what's behind this black plate? I want to screw a mount for the boost sensor I'm installing and wanted to make sure I wasn't going to drill into the flux capacitor or anything like that. That is the perfect spot for what i have planned.