Speaking of lubing, any recommended oil to use for head bolts? Guy at my supply shop said use copper grease but i told him no.
Need a light oil just don't know if there's a particular brand or viscosity
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Speaking of lubing, any recommended oil to use for head bolts? Guy at my supply shop said use copper grease but i told him no.
Need a light oil just don't know if there's a particular brand or viscosity
So whats the max distortion on block? The smallest feeler gauge i have is .004 and I can't get it in anywhere, block looks very flat.
I screwed a lubed bolt into each block hole to make sure it was clear of oil and water - which it wasn't, in fact I did this twice to clear it all out. I used engine oil...just a tad and wiped off excess. I think with angle torque the viscosity of the oil is not as important as the resistance experienced by the bolt doesn't come in to play to the same degree. I'm sure Dave will have a better answer.
My boost hose barb coming out of manifold
Engine assembly oil is the best answer if you can get it, ARP stud lube is a variant of this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
I generally use 15/40wt engine oil
Its just as important, if one goes in hard or one goes in easy.......Quote:
Originally Posted by theNEWT
Thats about how I did it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
Getting close
I could shave off that,,:cool:
if I shaved.:angel::wasntme:
Me too:pQuote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Great thread info here.:cool:
very close. thats as clean as I like them before I check the flatness. but I'd be careful about the spots where there is some evidence of the old gasket material.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
I know you're going to be tempted to go heavy with the power equipment to remove the left over material on the block, but dont you can introduce depressions in the area around the left over material.
now its time to start paying attention to how the surface finish is looking and clean up the edges of the coolant gallery orifices and blend them with small sanding drum and small wire wheel inside the galleries if you are going to do that.
This is the kind of stuff that makes apprentices earn their pay...
If you keep up the level of attention to detail, and patients to do the work to the standard you are doing you're not going to have any problems with the longevity of your repair. Keeping it that way when it all goes wrong or takes longer and longer is the hardest thing to do especially as the external pressure mounts to get it done.
If you keep going at this rate I can comfortably assure you that I've seen shoddier workmanship from "professional" mechanics.
Most the block is flat. Got bout 2thou to 2.5thou between 3 and 4 cylinders. Rest of block is 1.5 thou or less