Thread: New Cylinder Head

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the heater matrix can take a fair bit of heat out but its not critical to the cooling function of the engine. What is critical is that you get the flow from the back of the block going forwards. You wont miss it under normal operating conditions but chuck darwin heat, Aircon, fully loaded trailer and trying to overtake and you will bake the back of the donk without the extra flow from the heater outlet on the head.

not 100% on this. how to you ensure the flow from back of block forward? this is the bit of pipe which sticks out of the head going upwards? and you hook it up to the back of the pipe that runs above the head? is there a particular way you need to hook them up? you mean have a nice round loop with no sharp corners to that you dont get any frictional losses?

Originally Posted by Fausto79

not 100% on this. how to you ensure the flow from back of block forward? this is the bit of pipe which sticks out of the head going upwards? and you hook it up to the back of the pipe that runs above the head? is there a particular way you need to hook them up? you mean have a nice round loop with no sharp corners to that you dont get any frictional losses?

thats it.

on some engines like say a holden 6, an isuzu, the 2.25s you can just put blanking plugs in place of the spigots for the hoses for the heater OR you can just put blanking cups onto the spigots.

you cant do that on the tdiX00 if you do and work it hard #4 cops it

for the TDIX00 use a nice round loop of hose to go from that spigot back to the heater return pipe. If you cant make that work grab a 3/4 male/male barb joiner, join the 2 hoses where they would normally go onto the barbs for the heater matrix at the firewall and leave them routed as per normal.

Alternate solutions to just bypassing it include...

fit a shower water heat exchanger (glind is one of the more popular ones)
use it to feed a coolant/charge air intercooler
use it to feed a coolant jacketed turbocharger (say a TD04)
use it to feed through a webasto pre heater
use it to feed a heat exchanger for a WVO heater

Screw that fitting out of the old head (the corroded pipe) take it down to your local parts/speed shop and replace it with a new Brass fitting, make sure you fit the old thermostat housing to the new head before you fit the head, there is a drain plug for the coolant on the passenger side of the block, just behind the dipstick tube, remove that to properly drain the coolant, otherwise you will still have coolant in the head and block and some will end up in the bores when you lift the old head, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by Tank

Screw that fitting out of the old head (the corroded pipe) take it down to your local parts/speed shop and replace it with a new Brass fitting, make sure you fit the old thermostat housing to the new head before you fit the head, there is a drain plug for the coolant on the passenger side of the block, just behind the dipstick tube, remove that to properly drain the coolant, otherwise you will still have coolant in the head and block and some will end up in the bores when you lift the old head, Regards Frank.

Yea block has been drained. I will do what you say regarding the fitting out of head. Hopefully I can get it out. I have brand new thermostat housing which i will bolt onto head before fitting. I read that on some thread here that it is a trap as near impossible to fit when head already in.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

thats it.

on some engines like say a holden 6, an isuzu, the 2.25s you can just put blanking plugs in place of the spigots for the hoses for the heater OR you can just put blanking cups onto the spigots.

you cant do that on the tdiX00 if you do and work it hard #4 cops it

for the TDIX00 use a nice round loop of hose to go from that spigot back to the heater return pipe. If you cant make that work grab a 3/4 male/male barb joiner, join the 2 hoses where they would normally go onto the barbs for the heater matrix at the firewall and leave them routed as per normal.

Alternate solutions to just bypassing it include...

fit a shower water heat exchanger (glind is one of the more popular ones)
use it to feed a coolant/charge air intercooler
use it to feed a coolant jacketed turbocharger (say a TD04)
use it to feed through a webasto pre heater
use it to feed a heat exchanger for a WVO heater

Yea i was going to do the male/male barb thing to be honest.

Originally Posted by Fausto79

Yea block has been drained. I will do what you say regarding the fitting out of head. Hopefully I can get it out. I have brand new thermostat housing which i will bolt onto head before fitting. I read that on some thread here that it is a trap as near impossible to fit when head already in.

depends on the tooling you have. Certainly not impossible but definitely one of those things that will make you swear at the designer. My reasoning for wanting it in place before you play with the head is its easier to manhandle the head with it in place.

as a side...

once you have the locator dowels in the block and the head gasket sitting on them place some plastic cards (dead credit cards and strips of ice cream container work well) on the gasket without touching the sealant beads on the gasket before trying to place the head. This helps stop you from damaging the gasket with the head on initial installation. place all the bolts in to make sure that you have everything setup (like the aircleaner bracket for a deefer tdi) remove the cards then start removing the bolts one at a time and oiling them prior to starting your torque sequence.

start following your magic number for the initial torque but DO NOT progress onto the angle torquing phase until you can complete one complete cycle of the magic pattern without any of the bolts moving at the starting torque value.

Originally Posted by Fausto79

Yea i was going to do the male/male barb thing to be honest.

They can be difficult to find but the easiest ones to make fit are 90 degree barb joiners. if you look at how the hoses run to the firewall you'll see a spot where you can cut the leg off of one of the hoses and shorten another to get them to join without excessive distortion of the hoses.

On a scale of one to f....d how would you guys rate the block? Still salvageable? Inside it looks pretty clean but there's a lot of scale build up on the edge of the galleries. Should be able to clean it off but whether i can get good seal with new gasket?

Mostly on inside edge of galleries. The mating face edge a bit cleaner.

The head is a bit worse. Some of the galleries next to valves were completely caked shut. Don't know how it never overheated. Always ran perfect temp and barely got hot even when i went highway camping fully loaded.

Sorry for multiple posts not uploading pics together on iPhone