Thread: New Cylinder Head

Fausto i just flicked thru the whole thread again and i got to the part where the coolant was full to brim, this is a big no-no.
You should only ever fill to seam line so that any pressure can be released by the cap, if its tries to release pressure and its full of coolant it will try to expand and split the tank.
You probably still have an air leak somewhere or air in the system, i know you took your time but i did the same over a weekend (twice) and been motoring along fine for 2 weeks now - something has to be amiss.

thanks for replies.

Damink i had a thought about the heater hoses but in my case i thought maybe was an air bubble in there which is why i pulled them apart and tried to bleed air out by filling a bit of coolant in there. thats when i noticed it was loose. the plu,bing looks pretty good. seems like it would flow pretty well. i will keep it in my list of potential suspects though.

im surprised it didnt blow the hose either. maybe as loan rangie said it was just too full and came out. the thing is, its not leaking coolant from anywhere now. maybe it was leaking out of the loose hose and ran down top of engine and onto fan. crazy. so hard to find bright green liquid coming out.

as i mentioned it was full to brim but after running it for a while the level seemed to come down. maybe still was too full though. everything now seems balanced in cooling dept. so see how it goes.


taking it tomorrow hopefully to well known LR mech here. he said bring it in whenever and they will do quick and free CO2 test on it. that will put me at ease. either i need to redo again, or its fine. while im there ill get him to check a few other things. like the thump. definately need a new tensioner too. the canary is pretty loud.

on the other subject. its possible it was just the new expansion tank cap was dodgy. the old one seems to be releasing pressure properly.

i will post on here tomorrow hopefully after i get a real (not me) mechanic to look at it and get a proper opinion.

another thing i noticed which never did before. when i first start the engine i get about 5-10 seconds where its running ok but shudders a bit. sorta like pressure building up slow or getting itself into timing. funny to explain. but you get this faint vibrations in timing for a few seconds until all runs fine. the madman said pressure is 48psi almost instanly.

Originally Posted by Fausto79

another thing i noticed which never did before. when i first start the engine i get about 5-10 seconds where its running ok but shudders a bit. sorta like pressure building up slow or getting itself into timing. funny to explain. but you get this faint vibrations in timing for a few seconds until all runs fine. the madman said pressure is 48psi almost instanly.

Could it be one or two cylinders initially not firing correctly? Did it get hot before you repaired the head? If so, you may have damaged one of the injector tips.

Aaron

Originally Posted by Aaron IIA

Could it be one or two cylinders initially not firing correctly? Did it get hot before you repaired the head? If so, you may have damaged one of the injector tips.

Aaron

never got too hot. gauge moved few times but was able to see it very quickly and bring it back down in time. checked block for flatness as well. injectors are brand new. as are glow rods. pretty much the whole top end is new.

took it to LR repair shop today to get it checked out. good news is after a few tests including CO2 test, everything seems fine. recons head not leaking and was no excessive pressure in the system.

last night after i drove it noticed water near bottom radiator hose. got them to check it out. now the bad news. which is ok. the bottom tclamp i used was a bit too strong i think (i will blame myself for this) the spigot was a bit warped and also there was a crack where it joins the radiator body. so this is where the leak was coming from and getting picked up by the fan and sprayed around.

got them to take it out and fix it. will pick up car tomorrow. they will also check out the clunking sound. he seemed to think was too quiet to be vacuum pump or big ends. he said possibly crank bold came loose. he said whilst radiator out they will have a look.

bit of a pain but much better news than was fearing.

he said drive on. everything looks very good. although he said he hates the silicone hoses. they are too slippery.

very relieved.

an initial off beat idle can be an injector line leaking down. then taking its time to purge. This can be an injector fault or a check valve fault on the IP.

IT can also be a sticky rocker thats holding an inlet valve open (if you get chuffing in the inlet) or an exhaust valve if you dont.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

an initial off beat idle can be an injector line leaking down. then taking its time to purge. This can be an injector fault or a check valve fault on the IP.

This is what I was leading towards. But he has new injectors. Could still be the pump end though.

Aaron

Originally Posted by Aaron IIA

This is what I was leading towards. But he has new injectors. Could still be the pump end though.

Aaron

i certainly hope not. the IP is just on 2 years old now. one of injectors was leaking at spill rail but that has been fixed. there is very slight wetness around injectors but no real leak.

could it be something with springs/valves in new head?

also, the car struggles at anything over 2.5 - 3k revs. doesnt like going that far. lift pump? even though thats newish as well.

the rover place is changing my fuel filter while they have it there. i didnt do this even though i know i should have with new injectors etc. just ran out of time and $.