Thread: Welding diffs

Sure can man. I put 33s under mine. Although it took a bit more than the "camel cut" lol. More like full guard chopoffery.

As to spinning wheels. Its a constant 4x4. Spinning wheels is sort of out of the question anyway. Unless you take of your front shaft <- thinking of doing that just for fun when i weld mine mate.

If you weld your diff however then everything would be amplified.
Bigger wheels will mean more resistance when turning so more likely to break axles....... Something i keep tossing up right now. Will my 33 inch muddies offer too much resistance turning on the black stuff and perhaps snapping an axle very early.

Which gets to the next point. The mighty LR dont come out with good axles.

Should clarify, by spinning the wheels, I mean actually getting them to move!

Any pics of the cutting you needed to perform? A bit of hackery doesn't scare me

What size tyres (265/75?) are you running. I can get super cheap retreads which would suit me fine.

Originally Posted by SeanP

Should clarify, by spinning the wheels, I mean actually getting them to move!

Any pics of the cutting you needed to perform? A bit of hackery doesn't scare me

What size tyres (265/75?) are you running. I can get super cheap retreads which would suit me fine.

Sorry mate miss understood that bit.

I run 33x12.5x15
I think that works out to be 318x72x15 or so the calculator conversion says lol.

I will take some pics now of my car and what i cut out to get it to operate properly.
I might add i had to make my own extended bump stops also to prevent cutting the crap out of my tyres.

I have found a sheet metal worker to weld up my diff, so that'll happen next week. In the mean time I've been looking for Salsbury axles. Unless I'm misreading what I'm finding, it is a complete diff (housing, axles, brakes) change over? Which also means tail shaft change? I was hoping for a diff centre and axle change,

yep, sals is a complete housing job to get into a disco not just a center and shafts.

the only way to get more strenght into a rover rear is to use the heavy duty cross pin diff from the front end of an RFSV and aftermarket axles.

of course you can just recenter the diff with a locker. or weld it, the weak point(s) of the stock rover diff is the spider gears, the cross pin and then the axles (in no particular order) then you can pin the crownwheel as well to help prevent it from flexing.

Just make damn sure that your welder dude leaves the center free of additional weld or you're not going to get the broken axle extraction tool in from the unbroken side to get the broken side out.

say it with me...

I will not break both rear half shafts at once.

Well got a price for a diff, hub to hub, for $400. Would be 24 spline as the diffs are from 95-96-97 year cars. Seems reasonable to me.

So in the event of breaking one, I could swap it out.

Seems like alot of mucking around. The rear is easy 20 bolts and a bit of gasket goo and your done. $500 should buy you a decent second hand 24 spline locker in the "diff assy" it is a straight swap for your 10 spline. Then find a cheap set of 24 spline hituff axeles or stock up on standard 24 splines from a d2.

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Originally Posted by 53WVC

$500 should buy you a decent second hand 24 spline locker in the "diff assy" .

I wish! Im always on the look out for a locker.
Last one i seen here was $700 for a second hand one less the pump and what not to actually get it running.