Power Windows

**Ovadahill** · 24th November 2015, 08:24 PM

Decided to have a crack at the power windows today. Rears wouldnt work at all and passenger front has a 1/4 inch gap at the top fully closed. So front window I'm guessing a worn regulator and rears well going by every other post on power windows it must be the window lift module. Well sounds like a pain in the arse to get module out so out comes the rave and multi-meter. Found no power to rear window switches and fuses good. Located the module and back probed the connector for power to rear window switches. Nothing. Checked power to the module from fuse box and have power in. Lookin like the module. So checked all wires in and out of module and nothing left but to call the module as faulty and yep it is a pita to Remove. Check the circuit board and it looks pretty good.

So went around the board re-flowing the solder joints. Had a couple of relay legs were the solder seemed to disappear and one joint that went dull and looked like the track was starting to lift. Mmm not overly keen on repairing a circuit board and remembered I had another module in a spare parts box. Ill give that a go. Now because its a pita to remove the whole module from under the dash you can pull the circuit board out which is what I did so I pulled the board out of the spare module and it is different. 2 Relays not 4. So looks like I'm repairing the original board. Re soldered where it needed and where the track was lifting I added a wire link. Plugged back in tested and now have power to rear windows

. Now that works I thought I'd give the other board a run and bugger me it works as well. I was thinking it might have been out of a 2 door but must just be a revised design.
Part 2 of this was the front passenger window not going all the way to the top so off with the door trim and Inspect. The regulator had worn teeth on the last inch so no worries have a spare parts vehicle and pulled the front passenger reg and motor out and thought easy fix

. Not to be. My daily driver is a 96 model and the spare parts car is a 94. The wiring for the motor had a different connector plus the plastic slides that go in the window runner are different as well. They are square and thicker. So I may have to grab the window out of spare parts car as well

Oh the joy of land rovers

**firsttracks** · 24th November 2015, 08:53 PM

Oh man, I feel your pain I have the same problem at the moment (rear windows only) however I I'm thinking my problem is caused by the female plug connectors on the loom opening up and not making contact with the male connections in the board. As every time I wiggle the connector, the rear windows work. No doubt I've caused this myself, from replacing the board x number of times (I have 2 spare ecu boards now). My only solution at the moment is to pull the connector off and resolder another one onto the loom, but I keep putting this job off, as its only my rear windows, and like you said it's a major pita. I hate pulling that control board it's the worst.

partsguru · 26th November 2015, 10:21 AM

I decided to have a go at my window ECU today and found something that may help others. All the connections that were broken on mine were on the legs of the relays on the other side and I also noticed that all three relays were lifted off of the circuit board, which along with the sideways mounting of the board and the somewhat rough roads we seem to encounter

, the stain on those solder joints make sense. My "cure", which time will prove, was to take some Automotive Goop (NAPA P/N 7652620) and attach all three relays to each other and the board itself, hopefully keeping the stress off of those connections. If Goop isn't available in your area, an epoxy would work the same - Goop is a thick-bodied "silicone'type" stuff that adheres very well to anything and it flows as it dries and also remains slightly flexible, I recommend it for weatherstrips over the brittle 3M stuff. Bottom line though, the weight of the relays are putting too much stress on the board and breaking the joints. A potting material would probably be the ultimate, but a bit of research on temps and such is probably more than it's worth. Russ

**theNEWT** · 26th November 2015, 03:45 PM

Good pics and info, I have to repair my standard Land Rover rear window stuff up some time. Fun Fun Fun!

**jcamp** · 26th November 2015, 11:05 PM

So long ago I am a bit vague about it, but for pre upgrade where there was no 'ECU' and the controller was in the "motor" there was a repeated issue with controller shortly after the warranty.

IIRC the problem was in the "timer/controller" in the controller which used a 10uf capacitor as a control element. Bad batch of cheap capacitors and replacement with telecom grade stuff ($0.05ea) fixed the problem.

Comparision with motor in hand was 20 min labour vs $120 last century

**Ovadahill** · 28th November 2015, 03:53 PM

Firsttracks you might be able to pull the terminals from the connector and close them up a bit with a pair of pliers.
Cheers theNewt. Good luck with yours.

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