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Thread: Dicovery 1 front end a question or two

  1. #1
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    Dicovery 1 front end a question or two

    First up this is my first Discovery so getting to know it`s good and bad points. More good points than bad points so far. One issue and the one I have a query about. At near on 100 kph is gets the shakes the moment the disco travels over a uneven road surface. Slow down and then bring it back up to a 100 kph till the next rough bit. Any speed over 100 kph and it shakes regardless. Now I have been told by a long time owner of Disco`s that it may be a front end alignment. Is that a possibility? Also the owner said that only a land rover work shop has the right gear to get it right. If that is true which would be the recommended one?
    Cheers Hall

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    Question

    I gather u have checked your wheel balancing and also the condition of your steering Dampener?

    I know mine use to get the shakes but I knew the bushes on the steering Dampener were crook also..... Problem was solved with new bushes.....
    Have no idea if yours would be the same issue or not but its somewhere to start.....

  3. #3
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    Thanks for that reply so quick. Will have a look at the steering dampener and bushes. Disco got a road worthy about three months ago obviously they did not get it up to speed. Maybe they also passed on looking to close on the steering dampener.
    Cheers Hall

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    Probably worth checking for loose components first.

    Swivel hubs should take a modest force to move, aka preload. To do this properly you need all the steering joints off and the wheels off. A swivel hub shouldn't just fall to one side. Remove shins from under the top mount to correct pre load.

    Wheel bearings should have no free play. Adjust accordingly.

    Steering ball joints should have no play. Replace as required.

    Panhard rod bushes should have no free play sideways.

    Get someone in the drivers seat to rock the steering wheel about 1/4 turn each way from centre and get under it to feel all joints for slop. Jack up each wheel and rock it from top to bottom.

    When you have eliminated all possible sloppy parts THEN go for a wheel alignment. You can actually do a wheel alignment with a tape measure but you must have a steady hand and good eyesight as well as an idea of what you're measuring, ie 1-2mm toe out.

  5. #5
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    Hall,
    Provided that all the components are mechanically sound, the only variable in a D1 front end is toe in/out - and as Beautey points out, this can be checked by careful measuring. You don't need to go to a dealer for this! The toe is adjusted by the track rod - the one behind the axle. I use an adjustable tent pole as my measuring stick - get a firmish slip fit between the tyres behind the axle, then check between the tyres in front of the axle, should be a mm or 2 greater distance. If not, loosen the lock nuts on both tie rod ends on the track rod and turn as required to get the right measurement.
    Aussearcher

  6. #6
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    Great info from you all. The tent pole is a nifty idea and will use that. From it`s service history, the fact it had a larger rear view mirror, has a tow bar and heavier spring on the back for towing I can gather it was a caravan tractor. Not a dent or scratch under neath, so most likely never been off road so any wear in the front end should only be from just general use. Even the 4wd selector was stiff to to engage, most likely hardly used.
    Cheers Hall

  7. #7
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    Another thing to look at is the universal joint in the lower steering shaft. Initially vibration at only a certain speed range (generally high) on certain sections of road then extended re both speed range and sections of road.

    Edited to add (I am very fussy mechanically dings not so much - have been known to do a snorkel addition mit axe) rubbers may be an issue:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-ra...ml#post2468591

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Probably worth checking for loose components first.

    Swivel hubs should take a modest force to move, aka preload. To do this properly you need all the steering joints off and the wheels off. A swivel hub shouldn't just fall to one side. Remove shins from under the top mount to correct pre load.

    Wheel bearings should have no free play. Adjust accordingly.

    Steering ball joints should have no play. Replace as required.

    Panhard rod bushes should have no free play sideways.

    Get someone in the drivers seat to rock the steering wheel about 1/4 turn each way from centre and get under it to feel all joints for slop. Jack up each wheel and rock it from top to bottom.

    When you have eliminated all possible sloppy parts THEN go for a wheel alignment. You can actually do a wheel alignment with a tape measure but you must have a steady hand and good eyesight as well as an idea of what you're measuring, ie 1-2mm toe out.
    x2 in this order.

    Also, definitely no specialised Land Rover tools required for a wheel alignment! Any respectable tyre place can do it, although as above, this is about the last thing I would check.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  9. #9
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    Also check the wheels are balanced, by a reputable tyre place.

    I had a similar shake at 95+ and the tyres had just been fitted and balanced. I got so sick of it I went to tyrepower and had them check the balance, they laughed when I told them who had done the original balance.
    Neale

    85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
    89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
    93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
    96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
    04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
    09 Cub Daintree Kamperoo
    12 VE II Commodore Ute DD

  10. #10
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    Hally, is it a vibration or shimmy through the steering wheel.

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