Failing to reach 3000rpm

Not bad for peace of mind sake, but id put the pushrod at the bottom of the list.

Found the rear sedimenter/filter. Do i just remove the cap off the bottom and let it drain or should i replace the whole thing? Is it like a fuel filter which needs changing every so often?

Might check manual for this. Shouldn't really ask questions like this. Just good reference for people wanting to find out same thing. Ill chrck manual and post what I've found.

Another thing, is it possible when i was turning engine over that if its not rotating and you pull too hard that you slip a tooth on timing belt n put it slightly out? Or is it not physically possible? There is no smoke at the back and has power. Runs okish, little bit rough. Just read another post with this issue but his engine blew smoke. Although had loud tappets etc.

Have you checked your tachometer against a laser tachometer? You will then know if you have an engine problem, or a tachometer problem.

Aaron

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Originally Posted by Fausto79

Another thing, is it possible when i was turning engine over that if its not rotating and you pull too hard that you slip a tooth on timing belt n put it slightly out? Or is it not physically possible? There is no smoke at the back and has power. Runs okish, little bit rough. Just read another post with this issue but his engine blew smoke. Although had loud tappets etc.

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That certainly could cause your issues mate.
Well worth checking that one for peace of mind.

Just to add..
A mate of mine has a v8 disco. Anyway he replaced some of his air intake with that red stuff your using. (or looks the same anyway) Only about 6 inches of it.
Even just that 6 inches under heavy revving actually squeezed in and restricted air flow. Suffice to say we threw that away at that point. I understand he paid quite a bit for it too!
If there is even a possibility its happening i would do the same thing. Even if its only replaced for testing purposes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DAMINK

A mate of mine has a v8 disco. Anyway he replaced some of his air intake with that red stuff your using. (or looks the same anyway) Only about 6 inches of it.
Even just that 6 inches under heavy revving actually squeezed in and restricted air flow. Suffice to say we threw that away at that point. I understand he paid quite a bit for it too!
If there is even a possibility its happening i would do the same thing. Even if its only replaced for testing purposes.

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It could only collapse before the turbo. After the turbo it is pressurised. What pressure are you getting at the manifold? In any case, if an air restriction was great enough to limit unloaded engine speed, it would result in large amounts of black smoke. When I had a split turbo connecting hose, my engine would still rev right out, but only had about half the amount of power. I think once you have checked engine speed with an independent tachometer, it would be wise to check both cam and pump timing.

Aaron

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Originally Posted by Aaron IIA

It could only collapse before the turbo. After the turbo it is pressurised. What pressure are you getting at the manifold? In any case, if an air restriction was great enough to limit unloaded engine speed, it would result in large amounts of black smoke. When I had a split turbo connecting hose, my engine would still rev right out, but only had about half the amount of power. I think once you have checked engine speed with an independent tachometer, it would be wise to check both cam and pump timing.

Aaron

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That particular v8 did not have a turbo :) :wasntme:

You need to go back to the original alternator pulley and serp belt before anything else. Bigger pulley is going to give you slower rpm readings, also check alternator connections are tight and clean.

DAMINK - yea need to check hoses. i know the one from top of intercooler to inlet is quite squeezable. but that one would be under pressure not vacuum. the 90 degree going to turbo is quite hard. not sure how to check if it collapses without having camera under bonnet while im driving. boost gauge should be hooked up properly soon.

also, the engine seems to be running too smootly to be out of timing. i know i said its a bit rough but only slightly. it actually idles very nicely. apart from that sound. so would think if timing was out it would be much worse that what it is. kinda feel like its a fuel issue. because of ticking sound and just slight vibrations. could just be that the rattles in the car are making me go insane.

NEWT- i found pics of my old alternator after i pulled it out and the new one. i know hard to judge by pics but both look same size. i think they are the 49mm one. the old one says landrover on it so assume its original one and previous owners never changed. i did have some earth issues with the tacho wire and got it cleaned up and a sparky got rid of connector and directly wired it.

AARON - will check tacho like you say. my friend nearby should have laser timing gun. is it esy to check the cam and fuel pump timing? just a matter of making sure marks are lined up? or do i have to remove timing cover etc?

thanks all for sticking with me, i know im a pain in the backside and a bit obsessive but hopefully this will help generations of d1 owners to come as well. that makes me feel better about always asking for advice here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fausto79

Found the rear sedimenter/filter. Do i just remove the cap off the bottom and let it drain or should i replace the whole thing? Is it like a fuel filter which needs changing every so often?

Might check manual for this. Shouldn't really ask questions like this. Just good reference for people wanting to find out same thing. Ill chrck manual and post what I've found.

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Dont undo the drain plug, undo from the bolt on top.
Drain plug is plastic and prone to falling apart just as you go to drain it.

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