Crazy prices for a pretty basic item.
What about the other spark plugs? Are they all back? May be many reasons why it would run rich, but only one black wont be the MAF.
A spark plug went bad on my 3.9 V8 (1995) yesterday, it was real black when I pulled it out. So I checked the MAF values with my multi meter.
CO trim value 0.66v
Airflow signal ignition on 0.45v
Airflow engine idling 1.7v
It doesn't seem to be using any more fuel than usual and it goes and idles well. But I thought I'd source a repacement MAF ERR5198 and swap it in to see how it goes and keep as a spare if it's the same.
I see the OEM MAFs are no longer available. Rimmers sell aftermarket for around $200 delivered. LRDirect offer Britpart at $125 (2 year warranty) or Allmakes for a bit more (1 year warrnaty) or a Land Rover original? for a cool $2,200 (1 year warranty).
Locally Roverparts in Ballarat sell one for $465 or LR original for around $960.
There are lots of Chinese knock offs on ebay, cheap. I have heard some are ok, others are not. And rebuilt ones are generally not very reliable.
Roverlord was recommended on this forum a while back, he supplied Chinese ones that were mostly ok, but they don't seem to be on his webshop now.
Can anyone suggest a tried and tested source of these?
Crazy prices for a pretty basic item.
What about the other spark plugs? Are they all back? May be many reasons why it would run rich, but only one black wont be the MAF.
I have heard bad stories about the after market MAFs.
I personally would try avoid that.
Also i doubt a MAF would effect just one plug.
Faulty plug being most likely.
Bad lead or perhaps the head leaking a bit of oil in that cylinder.
If it was me i would change the plug and do a compression test on the cylinder while i was there.
I would not be entertaining the new MAF yet anyway.
All plugs were pretty black, so I guess it's running rich even though the CO trim value is down lower than the standard MAF spec 1.2v for a non cat engine.
These were NGK Iridiums BPR5EIX installed Feb 2013 and done less than 20,000km. Never had an NGK plug fail before. I cleaned the rest up and put them back in along with a spare plug and it goes pretty good.
Really the CO should be set not only with a multi meter but a gas analyser as well. Anyone fitted a wideband AFM into a D1? The other method, which old skool mechanics use, is to set the idel mixture by ear - back off the CO anticlockwise until the engine just starts to stumble (i.e goes lean) then rotate it clockwise until the revs just begin to pick up, then a quarter turn further clockwise.
I'd still like to swap in another MAF sensor if I can find one at the right price.
Hi Traco, yes we used to sell the chinese mafs for D1s, I had on on my Disco1. i stopped importing them after a couple of duds. and not being able to return them for warranty as the cost to send back to Uk supplier was too expensive.
All the mafs available are chinese knock offs. I would not spend the $465 locally for a copy maf. As much as I hate to send someone overseas as we all should support local businesses, I would buy it on ebay as that is too big a mark up. Cheers, Mario
Tarco, you'll probably find the Britpart and Allmakes ones are the same part.
Britpart and Allmakes are just part sourcers and not manufacturers of the parts.
For some reason Allmakes often charges more for the same identical part.
Britparts 24 moth warranty I think is only avail in the UK/Europe, I don't think Britparts Australian agents honour a 24 month warranty for any of Britpart parts sold here
.
The 2 year warranty would mean you would have to send the part back to the UK at your cost .
Cheers, Mario
Thanks Mario for these informative insights. The MAF on my D1 is the original 1995 part so I guess I can't complain if it is shot. I understand the same Lucas part was used on a number of other makes around this time including Jag XJ40 and Saab Turbo, as well as some Chevs, and the Rover 820 series sedans.
A few years back there was a group buy of Chinese MAFs organised on this forum. The units cost less than $100 and I put in for one for the heck of it to keep as a spare. It looked ok out of the box but not completely identical to the OEM. When I plugged it in the CO values read a very high 2.24v on the multi meter, which would cause a high CO% at idle, so I attempted to wind the trimmer pot screw back to lean the mixture. But the screw seemed very loose and wobbly and turning it made no difference at all to the voltage value.* So I concluded it was a dud and not worth the hassle of trying to return it. I hope the quality of the aftermarket ones may have improved since then, probably less of a gamble than a rebuilt/recon MAF about which I've seen very few positive reviews.
If you're unsure if the MAF is working correctly - which from what you've said I feel that it probably is, start your car then pull the connector off of the MAF. Your car should go into limp mode if it detects the MAF as missing. If it was already broken it won't make a difference, if it was you'll get rough running. Plugging it back in while still running won't fix it. You need to stop and start to clear it.
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