Motor swap 93 v8i to 4.2

I do understand there are a lot of belts wrring around up there,, mine used to break that tiny one so often I carried a couple of spares in the car,,
but for driving pleasure I'd have a 3.5 5speed any day of the week,, sit them around 3K revs in the countryside and they are a joy to drive,,

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Originally Posted by lars04

Thanks mate but what do you mean by 4.6 core?

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The bits that are specific to a 4.6, the block (short motor), fully assembled with heads, head stud kit, timing chain and new cam installed. Then you fit your 3.5 inlet and exhaust manifolds, rocker covers, front timing cover components, engine mounts, flywheel and sump. Any further mods (eg Haltec computer, coil packs etc) can wait until the motor is run in and you have more money to burn.

3.5 is very sweet. Needs to be kept on song like Pedro is alluding to. Cheers

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Originally Posted by bee utey

The bits that are specific to a 4.6, the block (short motor), fully assembled with heads, head stud kit, timing chain and new cam installed. Then you fit your 3.5 inlet and exhaust manifolds, rocker covers, front timing cover components, engine mounts, flywheel and sump. Any further mods (eg Haltec computer, coil packs etc) can wait until the motor is run in and you have more money to burn.

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So there's no way to just get a 4.6 and do a engine swap?

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Originally Posted by lars04

So there's no way to just get a 4.6 and do a engine swap?

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Only if you get really lucky and find one that's been fitted to an early D1 or RRC of the correct vintage. Anyway, if you can't handle swapping a few manifolds and stuff I doubt you have the will to actually change the motor. It's really trivial to grab a few gaskets and undo a handful of bolts. Fitting a motor to one of these is quite a lot harder than just swapping externals, believe me. Or just pay a mechanic to do the lot.

Edit: It's actually easier to replace a motor with most of the externals removed. A job I did a few years ago:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...into-94-a.html

sure, you can just go buy a 4.6 gems out of a RR,, ( at some stage a RR 4.6 must have bolted up to a LT77??)
and after all the expense of buying a 16 year old engine and getting it installed,,
would it be worth it?

I think thats what the other posters are getting at---:D

my 4.6 has cost me 15K at this stage,,,
(and I do understand everyone on AULRO can build one for less than that )

be careful what you wish for--

unless you are going to tow something--
just change the oil and drive it:cool:

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Originally Posted by bee utey

Only if you get really lucky and find one that's been fitted to an early D1 or RRC of the correct vintage. Anyway, if you can't handle swapping a few manifolds and stuff I doubt you have the will to actually change the motor. It's really trivial to grab a few gaskets and undo a handful of bolts. Fitting a motor to one of these is quite a lot harder than just swapping externals, believe me. Or just pay a mechanic to do the lot.


Edit: It's actually easier to replace a motor with most of the externals removed. A job I did a few years ago:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...into-94-a.html

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Is there any mods that can be done to get some more power out of the 3.5 she's done 320000 KS and still runs good, new to the land rover so don't really know how much more life the motor will have left in it. Hence the motor swap question.

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Originally Posted by lars04

Is there any mods that can be done to get some more power out of the 3.5 she's done 320000 KS and still runs good, new to the land rover so don't really know how much more life the motor will have left in it. Hence the motor swap question.

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New towing cam, timing chain and lifters might be worth doing as camshaft wear is a known issue on these things. With a bit of juggling the cam can be done with the engine still installed in the vehicle. Cleaning up the heads/valves and replacing the rings and big ends can be done in situ too, if you don't have an engine lift handy. 320K is not a lot for a 3.5 that's been well maintained and country driven. Maybe you should start diagnosis with a compression test. Have you advanced the timing to 10 degrees BTDC yet?

yea, compression test first.
it all starts with that.

In case you were wondering. A stocker I think. Lighter car of course...but sweet

https://youtu.be/HSRZ_aExeAc

Cheers