I can send you a pic at the end of the month when I get back home.
There is also the bracket that bolts to the throttle linkage.
I have a spare set you can have a look at if your in brisbane.
Hi, I am working on doing an auto conversion to my 300tdi 81 2 door RRC, have posted here before on another small problem. Was looking how the 2 kickdown brackets bolt to injector pump, have never seen before, so was wondering if someone could post a photo of pump with brackets fitted on it.
Thanks Joe
I can send you a pic at the end of the month when I get back home.
There is also the bracket that bolts to the throttle linkage.
I have a spare set you can have a look at if your in brisbane.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Thanks, So are there 3 brackets? I only have 2. Thanks for offer but I live near Ballarat Vic so not too practical though enticing, the weather here has been s@#$ for last few months.
Joe
Thanks
Sorry to bring up old post, but finally ready to drop out old box, so need to re-ask if anyone could post photos of kick down brackets.
Thanks Joe
I got some.
Not very good IQ as my photos were actually of the oil pressure and temp senders, but you will get an idea of what it should look like:
D800E_DSD_14409_sml.jpg
Forget the long coil spring .. has nothing to do with what you ask.
Note the extended lever on the IP spindle towards the front of the engine bay.
I'm pretty sure this isn't there on the manual models.
The extended lever has 4 holes to allow greater flexibility in adjusting the kickdown points.
That's in addition to the threaded collar on the cable itself.
That extended spindle arm is a separate piece which can be unbolted from the accelerator side of the spindle arm.
I remember that there is a hole and bump setup between the accelerator arm and kickdown arm so that when bolted up tight on the IP spindle, they don't move in relation to each other.
If you can see the image at the 1000pixel size I uploaded as, check the kickdown arm near the top of the image frame on the wide flat area .. and you will see a small bump. That's the bump that locates in the accelerator arm to locate the two arms rigidly.
Then you have the rear bracket that holds the actual cable. Just a typical L shaped bracket with a round hole to slot in the cable and the cutout to allow the inner cable to slide in/out to remove the cable assembly from the bracket entirely.
Hope that helps.
Gone dark now so I couldn't get a decent image of the setup as is.
I'd say if you can tryto locate the spindle arm from a wrecker, and if they have the cable holding braket .. bonus. It'll take you less than half an hour to fit it all up.
But you could easily make up the cable holding bracket.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Thanks for pics, finally got them fitted,could not see the extra hole to mount the rear one, was assuming it fitted on one of 2 existing bolts. Front was OK once worked out I was trying to fit it upside down. Now need to adjust cable? Any suggestions have googled a few but all seem to vary in their methods to a certain degree, but all seem to stress it is crucial to not wrecking gear box.
Thanks Joe
The best method I've found is to adjust the free play out of the cable to engage in the lever at idle position, then manually extend the inner cable until you go just past the bump where full kickdown occurs. Pull the lever to full throttle, insert the cable in the lever using a hole where full kickdown is achieved without stressing the cable, making sure it returns to the relaxed (no free play) position at idle. Test drive and see if the results meet expectations.
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