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yeah i've had issues on mine too alot of bolts rounded off some just stupid tight im suprised they didn't snap then theres other cases of loose bolts or missing altogether. I suggest you get some single hex impact sockets ive switched to using these over my double hex set as once they've started rounding off doubles just make it worse.
Roverlord sell new bolts too i've bought quite a few off them
Well, the motor is out and the bellhousing bolts, whilst difficult to access and quite tight, were not as tight as the sump bolts.
I also have the clutch plate and it explain the origin of a mysterious rattle that I have been trying to find for the last two years. I will be updating another thread with this link;
Clutch Plate Faults - When a rattle is clutch plate springs and not a gearbox fault. - YouTube
My springs were shot!. Lot's of meat still but the springs have had it. New one going in anyway.
Tom.
Well I got the motor in and it runs and sounds good. Just installed a new slave cylinder and bled it up. The clutch will not depress!. So it sounds like gearbox out, fix clutch and sell Disco, never to have another Landrover again. Spent most of my life fixing cars, trucks, outboards, chainsaws and mowers without too many problems, but Landrovers just take the cake. Or at least this one does. Just sick of it.
Tom.
Ok, calmed down a little. Needed to get away from the car for a day or so. Still very disappointed though. Put many engines in over the years and never had this problem. Had a reconditioned transfer case put in about 6-8 months ago and it looks like the front seal (to gearbox) is already leaking (very disappointed in the job that was done by a large independent LR garage, but that's another story). It just seems that any job on this car becomes a problem! I am starting to think that it is cursed!
Anyway, tomorrow I will take the the tc out, then the gearbox so that I can see what is going on with the clutch.
Talk about a love hate relationship - absolutely love driving it, but, when I get problems, loathe working on it.
Tom.
Could the clutch plate be put in ass about [bigwhistle]
It is easily done as i have seen so called professionals stuff it up so don`t feel bad [wink11]if it is
Attachment 135000Quote:
Originally Posted by rangieman
Possible, but I would have thought that if it was the clutch would still depress. The clutch only goes down maybe a centimeter and is then rock hard. I had the motor out and took time to align the clutch and it all looked ok (see photo above). I am wondering if the bearing has dropped out of it's carriers somehow or the pivot has come out of it's hole in the bell housing? I did use a new plastic clip, but it may have come out perhaps? Any way, I will know tomorrow. Nearly ready to drop the TC out in the morning and the gearbox shortly after.
Tom.
Transfer case is off and I think I know why it has leaked oil from day 1.
Very shoddy from a major independent workshop. Apparently silicone will help an oil seal work - NOT! There's a lo - t more silicone around the case that's not in the shot.
Attachment 135050
Anyway, onwards and upwards - gearbox here I come!
Tom.
Tom a lot of people nick the lips on the seals when offering up the transfer case to the out put on the gear box . I use m10 dowells cut to length to use a a guide. I never fit the seal into the case before fitting I just leave it dangling on the gearbox out put shaft. Once I know the output shaft has mated with the transfer, there is still enough room to use your fingers to line up the seal and press it gently into the transfer case. then I use a piece of soft timber and lever the seal home. This way you don't nip the seal ends on the out put shaft spines , I have never had a seal leak that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by BathurstTom
Cheers. Mario
Hi Mario, yes I have a set of guide dowels that I made to remove the TC quite some time ago. I replaced the seal and the o ring on the intermediate shaft, but the shaft kept on leaking. That's why the TC was replaced with a reco unit with the shaft fix. It was supplied and installed by a large independent (voldemor) workshop, but started weeping shortly after, which was very annoying. I would recommend a set of guide dowels to anyone removing/replacing the TC, as well as protecting the seal, it make the job easier.
Pulled the box out and found that the release bearing had come away from one of the saddles and the pivot rod wasn't seated correctly. Fortunately, everything looks to be in good order, so in the morning (when it's a little less than 36 degrees) I will start putting it back together. Should be fun with 40 degree temperatures predicted for the next 5 days. Well I do want to loose weight :) - Early starts and inside by about 1pm.
Cheers,
Tom.
I was pleased with myself yesterday having reassembled the clutch fork and release bearing etc and very carefully mating the box and motor up. Left it bolted up with 4 bolts/nuts overnight. Bolted the slave cylinder up this morning and the same thing! Clutch pedal goes down about an inch (taking up the slack) and then is as immovable as a rock! I have people visiting today, so I thought it was either walk away and relax and think about it or just keep doing whatever is being done wrong - sort of like ground hog day!
Any suggestions?
One thing that may possibly be a problem is that the master cylinder (MC) and push rod seem to be separate. That is to say, when I originally went to remove the master cylinder to check it, I undid the clevis clip off of the pin that holds the push rod to the pedal. Without taking the pin out, then went and undid the line from the MC to the slave cylinder and removed the two bolts holding the MC to the firewall. To my surprise, the MC came away, leaving the push rod in place. According to the rave manual, you need to remove the pin from the pedal and remove the push rod with the MC - the manual shows a circlip holding the pushrold in the end of the MC.
I know that I can pump up and bleed the MC and slave cylinder (and have done so twice), so it seems to work.
Any constructive suggestions welcomed.
Thanks,
Tom.
